The “food revolution” – the movement away from processed, mass-produced food and towards sustainable agriculture and home cooking – is all the rage among foodies, and (we think) rightfully so. Michael Pollan, journalist and author of “Omnivore’s Dilemma,” “In Defense of Food,” and most recently, “Food Rules” is one of the movement’s biggest advocates, and a celebrity among foodies. Everyone loves him – except for Salon.com writer Anna Clark.
Though few dare to poke holes in Pollan’s logic, Clark is unhappy to find him blaming the feminist movement for encouraging women to get out of the kitchen and ruining the institution of the family meal. Clark’s article, The Foodie Indictment of Feminism argues against Pollan’s recent New York Review of Books piece, in which he discusses the second-wave feminist movement’s denigration of “food-work” and resulting shift away from family meals. Though she agrees that family meals are important, Clark wonders why no one blames men for taking so long to step up to the plate (pun intended), and why the feminist movement in particular – and not just female desires to do something other than domestic work – is viewed as the culprit.
We love Michael Pollan, and we love the idea of eating more home-cooked meals, but we have to agree with Clark: Women aren’t the only ones responsible for making family meals, and the feminist movement probably isn’t to blame for mass production of processed foods.