Lasang Pinoy 17: Egg’s A Deal!: Itlog na Maalat

Today’s post is a contribution to the 17th edition of Lasang Pinoy, a monthly food blogging event highlighting everything that’s yummy about Filipino (Pinoy) food. Angelo of Eat Matters is hosting, and LP is back on after a brief hiatus caused by hurricanes and busy lives ; so it’s unquestionably appropriate that the EGG is this month’s topic of discussion. Long regarded the symbol of resurrection/new life/rebirth/regeneration, especially at Eastertime, the egg has endless possibilities. Though Easter eggs do not have a prominent place in Filipino tradition, it nevertheless is used in many Filipino dishes, highlighting its versatility and adaptability.

As a child, a lightly salted soft-boiled egg was one of the things my mother brought to my bedside as I recuperated from illness. Never mind that I hated (still do) any portion of the egg white that remained partially uncooked — I would dutifully and gratefully eat each bite as it was spooned from the egg cup in which it rested, and into my parched lips. This and a gingery broth from Mommy’s nilaga are two vivid memories from her collection of comfort and healing foods.

Contrast that softness and fuzzy feeling from the soft-boiled egg to the exciting crunch of a golden fried egg, sunny side up, its edges crackly and brown (not burned!)! This other favorite from childhood, sprinkled with bits of sea salt, coupled with broken off pieces of hot pandesal dipped into its orange (yup!) and still liquid center, plus a mug of hot chocolate, made up many a breakfast that fueled me with enough carbs and protein for the classes and lessons that day.

I could never get myself to like a tradition, however, that both my parents (and hubby) hold dear in their hearts: a steaming mound of freshly cooked rice, its middle broken slightly apart with a spoon and fork to create an indentation, and a fresh egg (usually straight from the hen house) cracked open and dropped in. Season with sea salt right there on your plate, and mix everything up until the egg is mostly cooked and everything has turned a lovely yellow. How’s that for a quick meal?

Eggs are indispensable it seems, making its home in appetizers, soups, salads, main dishes, and of course, dessert… what gastronomical wonders await the diner whose table is laden with egg-inspired creations from beginning to finish! I hope to see quite an array when the roundup is over and done. The question really isn’t what can you do with egg — it’s what can you NOT do with it? Fry it, bake it, stuff it, sweeten it, yum….

Back to the here and now, however, the egg rarely makes an appearance in our home. Not because of cholesterol or heart concerns — after all, more recent views have done much to dispel such fears — but in an attempt to stave off allergic reactions. This means I no longer make brazo de mercedes but once every couple of years, and egg tarts, cakes, as well as a host of other delectable desserts and snacks are few and far between. Hubby did extract a promise from me to serve him his favorite leche flan on his birthdays, and I comply to keep my guy happy. It was a lucky coincidence, then, that I had salted duck eggs (from some bibingka brought to a friend’s party recently), just for LP17!

This is a dish I didn’t really fall in love with until I was in my late teens. The combination of salty egg and unpeeled tomatoes just didn’t do anything for me as a child. (Give me some fried chicken, will ya?) When I finally acquired the taste, an eager period of experimentation ensued, so while I give you an uncomplicated, traditional recipe here, I urge you to try out some of the variations I’ve enjoyed through the years. It may be considered daily, ordinary fare; but brought to a gathering of Pinoys hungry for a taste of home, you can be assured it will be consumed in minutes, as this platter was.

3-4 salted duck eggs (make sure they’re the cooked kind! If not, do boil them gently first)
3-4 egg-sized and -shaped plum tomatoes (shooting for a bit of aesthetic here)
a handful of chopped red onions
a handful of chopped cilantro
a handful of sliced scallions/green onions
2 tablespoons flavorless oil (like canola) whisked with the juice of a lime, optional but nice
Freshly ground black (or white if you want a subtler pungency) pepper, optional

Cut eggs and tomatoes into 1/3-inch slices (thinner if you can manage it without mangling the eggs too much). Layer them in a concentric circle (or oval) on a platter, alternating egg and tomato slices. Sprinkle the red onions, cilantro, and green onions on top. Drizzle with the optional lime-oil mixture, and grind pepper over if you like. I like to chill this in the refrigerator (I never subscribed to that hoo-ha about tomatoes becoming grainy in the fridge — as long as I get really fresh ones I don’t really encounter that problem much), before serving.

Is it a salad? An appetizer? A viand? Your choice — be my guest. I *love* it with hot steamed rice, ESPECIALLY when those juices start oozing out and mingling — spoon that stuff on and dig in!

You can use this as topping for crostini if you’re in that kind of mood…. or for another Italian twist, layer with basil leaves and pour a bit of fruity olive oil — omit the cilantro and green onions and use chopped capers instead. If pasta is your thing, you could use this as a Pinoy-style “carbonara” — the egg as it disintegrates will coat your noodles and create a creamy consistency that appeals to Pinoys and other Asians alike, perhaps even an Italian or two! I bet you it would make a highly interesting topping for pizza… whoops, I just googled and see that someone has already done exactly that! — Do GMTA or what? (Click on that link for great information on salted duck eggs.)

Go Mexican (hey, wasn’t it just Cinco de Mayo?) — and double up on the cilantro, in which case the lime juice is NOT optional. Don’t forget the avocadoes for another shade of green in your layers.

Ah, and I cannot go without mentioning my favorite — Ma La oil (see China Moon cookbook for this one!) — spooned liberally on top, a touch of reddish, Szechwan heat that Emeril might call “kicking it up a notch” — and THAT from a non-fan.

‘Til the next edition of Lasang Pinoy….