Wulong/Oolong Tea

Tea is a fundamental part of Chinese life. It is identified, at least in one old Chinese saying, as one of the seven basic necessities in life, the other six being soy sauce, vinegar, salt, rice, fuel and oil. The role of tea in Chinese culture is so important that some authors have even questioned the validity of Marco Polo’s claims that he set foot on China based on one main thing — he never mentioned tea. Of course, he didn’t mention many other things, either.

Tea is a beverage prepared from the leaves of a the southern Chinese bush Camellia sinensis. It was first cultivated by the Chinese. Tea brewing and drinking have been popular in China for a long time, some accounts pointing to the Han Dynasty (206 BC- AD 220), others say the Tang dynasty (AD 618-907). Fuchsia Dunlop in Land of Plenty mentions a 4th century text that talks about tea being “given in tribute to King Wen, the twelfth-century-B.C. founder of the Zhou Dynasty, by tribal heads in the region”. Nina Simonds in A Spoonful of Ginger cites a popular myth that credits the Emperor Shen Nong as the creator of the drink. Most sources agree, though, that the aesthetics of drinking tea began to develop in the eighth century with the publication of Lu Yu’s Cha jing (Classic of Tea). At first, tea was drunk with salt and milk or butter, a practice that continued to the Qing dynasty. Today, it is drunk as a simple infusion and has become the standard drink in China.

Fujian settlers introduced tea to Taiwan/Formosa about 200 years ago; today, tea is one of Taiwan’s main exports. They produce excellent teas including the most prized Wulong teas which are highly regarded and enjoyed throughout the world.

Wulong Tea, or Oolong as it is more commonly known in the West, originated in Fujian, and is a semi-fermented tea, meaning it is allowed to ferment for half the length of time that black tea is. Oolong tea brews to a light amber, almost golden color, and exudes a fruity aroma. Its name means “black, or dark, dragon”, symbolizing authority and nobility. Its creation dates back to 1855. Tea farmers in Anxi county in Fujian combined green tea and black tea processing procedures, inventing this new type of tea. From picking to refining, Wulong tea leaves go through a seven-step process called “warm rolling”. Famous Oolong/Wulong teas include Phoenix Narcissus, Iron Buddha, Red Robe, Golden Key, Yellow Goddess of Mercy, Iron Warrior Monk, and White Crown teas. Oolong teas are classified according to production location, cultivar, or degree of fermentation.

Wulong/Oolong tea-making is a highly refined process, detailed in the book Tea by Yong-Su Zhen et al. First, fully mature shoots are plucked, ideally by hand, and usually from tea cultivars specially bred for Oolong tea. A special withering stage called “Zuoqing” or green-making is next, done in open air by sunlight. Successful withering depends on weather conditions, with sunny but windy weather being the most desirable. The leaves are spread out on bamboo mats and exposed to the sun for 30-60 minutes, during which the leaves are turned 2 or 3 times. When the leaves are soft, they are moved indoors. The degree of moisture loss determines the type of Oolong. Pekoe Oolong tea, for instance, has a higher degree of moisture loss than Pouchong, a very delicate tea. After withering, the leaves are “rotated” by hand using a bamboo tray (more common Oolongs are rotated in a machine), indoors, at a temperature of 68-77 degrees Fahrenheit and a humidity of 75-85%. The process lasts about 6-8 hours and is repeated 5-6 times. This rotation bruises the leaf edges and fermentation begins.

After rotation, the leaves are heated for 3-7 minutes at 356-428 degrees F to arrest fermentation. Before the temperature drops, the tea leaves are rolled in a mill. After rolling, drying is next and is usually done in two stages. The leaves are spread thinly on a bamboo basket or drying machine and dried quickly at high temperatures. The leaves are then dried a second time at a lower temperature. Each detailed step is dependent on the type/origin of the Oolong being produced, i.e., time and temperature of heating after rotation, length of time for drying temperature for drying, etc.

Here in the US, tea has so pervaded American life that we now have tea connoisseurs exploring beyond the usual bagged tea at corner Chinese restaurants. Even Dim Sum places offer more varieties of tea now than they were 10 years or even 5 years ago. Take a peek at the newsgroup rec.food.drink.tea and you’ll see what I mean. In our stores, more and more shelf space is being devoted to tea and all the accoutrements necessary for proper brewing and enjoying of the perfect cup. On the other end of the spectrum, you’ve got the diet fads, including

the “oolong tea” diet in which you drink five or six cups of oolong a day and its diuretic effect creates the illusion that you are shedding real pounds – Asian Food, the Global and the Local by Katarzyna Cwiertka with Boudewijn Walraven)

, most recently thrust into the spotlight again because of an Oprah Winfrey mention. Of course, Oolong tea has been available here for many years.

With the increased interest in serious tea, there are also an increase in tea purveyors exploiting this interest. Two vendors in particular that have catered to the American fascination with serious Chinese tea are Shan Shui Teas in Washington, DC, and Adagio Teas.

Shan Shui Teas is owned by Brian Wright, who studied in Taipei and Beijing in 1989-90 and fell in love with Chinese tea. He specializes in Taiwanese Oolong teas and offers teaware including those used for Gongfu. Gongfu is a special way of making tea and Oolong is the best variety for it. For an excellent introduction to Gongfu tea, read Fu Wei Wei’s post at Our China Journal and SenicYang’s Drinking Gongfu Tea.

More information on Oolong teas can be found at Oolongtea.org, including information on its health benefits.

Other References:
Lonely Planet Taiwan (Lonely Planet Taiwan)
Taiwan, by Andrew Bender

China to Chinatown by J.A.G Roberts

Good Luck Life: The Essential Guide to Chinese American Celebrations and Culture by Rosemary Gong