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Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

Fly Away Cafe

Driving in Italy: Not for the Faint of Heart

While normally I am a big fan of public transportation, and opt for trains, planes, and buses while on vacation, our trek to Italy and Croatia required covering a lot of ground to remote locations.  A car was a necessity.

Although the driving was left in the hands of the guys, we’ve covered enough ground that I can make a few observations (albeit from the passenger’s seat) about driving in Italy.

  • Narrow roads in the hilltowns of Tuscany People drive fast on the Autostrada.  Really, really, fast!
  • Tailgating seems not only permissible, but encouraged.  Even when you’re going fast on the Autostrada.  Leaving any discernible gap between the car ahead of you is an invitation for someone to pass.
  • You need a navigator or two to read the map and watch for directional signs.  When you blowing by them at speeds of 100+ kph, you need some extra eyes reading them.
  • All roads lead to Rome – or so it seemed – as no matter where you are there is a sign pointing you toward Rome.
  • In rural areas, you’ll find lots of narrow roads, frequently on the side of a mountain, and frequently containing lots of switchbacks.  People still drive fast.
  • When you are driving along the steep side of a mountain, you probably won’t find any guardrails or warning reflectors.
  • On these narrow winding roads, drivers will pass on a curve.  And sometimes that driver is in a large bus or truck.
  • In the small, picturesque hill towns, the roads are very narrow and rarely go straight.  People drive on them, even though there is very little room on either side of the car.  We did this once, and in error.  The photo shows the street, a term used loosely, that we drove down.  Most of the time we parked and walked.
  • Don’t expect drivers to stop for you in a cross walk. You’re going to need to dash across the street.

The stereotype of aggressive Italian drivers has some roots of truth, but these observations are not meant to be demeaning.  We soon found ourselves conforming to many of these driving habits as well.

If you’re staying in one of the larger cities like Rome, Florence, or Milan, you’ll probably have no need for a car.  If you want to take a day trip, you can rent one for a day or two.  But, if you’re going to explore the beautiful rural areas of the country, like Tuscany or Umbria, you’ll need to have a car.

Have you driven in Italy?

Photo credit:  personal collection

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Comments

3 Responses to “Driving in Italy: Not for the Faint of Heart”
  1. Gillian Dearnley (subscribed) says:

    Thank you for this Mary Jo. Yes, we too have driven in Italy and experienced everything you describe!

    Our very first trip to Tuscany was at Christmas time over 20 years ago when we found ourselves in the dark and in the fog on a steep hillside track with a sheer drop. We were lost! I have never forgotten it and as a result always advise people travelling in the winter to try to get back to their base before dusk if they have been sightseeing etc.

    I would add also that another disconcerting aspect of motorway driving is the tendency of Italian drivers to sound their horn loudly when overtaking you. Sometimes this is accompanied by flashing lights. We are not used to this in the UK and kept thinking at first that we had done something wrong and were being admonished. Then we realised it was just a way of their alerting us to their presence.

    • Mary Jo Manzanares says:

      We found the horns were much worse in the urban areas. The Autostrada was remarkably “honking free” except for the area around Milan. And Rome — oooooh, do not even get me started on traffic in and around Rome!

  2. Gillian Dearnley (subscribed) says:

    We have never been brave enough to attempt the Rome traffic! Florence was enough for us! (We came off the FI-PI-LI at the wrong exit when looking for the airport and got embroiled in a nightmare of one way systems. V. stressful as we were catching a flight. Purple-faced husband at wheel, young son in back and me the reluctant navigator).

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