Karne Garibaldi (website is in Spanish) in Guadalajara, Mexico is one of those favorite places.  When I’m in Guadalajara, the assumptions is that I’ll be having at least one meal at Karne Garibaldi.  And I’ve never gone wrong with that decision.

To “get” the concept of this restaurant, you have to let go of what you assume typical Mexican food is like.  What passes for typical in the US, is not typical when actually in the country.  It’s not necessarily better or worse, it’s just different.  But if you don’t let go of your preconceived expectations, no matter when you go to eat, you’ll be disappointed.

One of the claims to fame of Karne Garibaldi is its Guinness Book of Records (1996) entry for the fastest service.  Indeed, as the hostess in walking you to your table a group of waiters will appear bearing appetizers to get you started.  It’s plates full of warm fresh tortillas, grilled onions, refried beans with bits of corn in it (which is available to purchase by the can), other condiments (chopped green onions, radishes), and some salsa.  In many cases, these appetizers are on the table before your entire party has even been seated.  Chips and guacamole must be ordered separately, and guacamole is not always available  – but really, don’t bother – you’ll be just fine without it!

Once seated, waiters are there to take your order immediately.  If you want time to have an ice cold beer and chat, order them and ask for a little more time.  By default they are prepared to get you in and out in a hurry, but they are more than accommodating if you ask them to slow down the pace.  I’d recommend a cold Negro Modelo (ask for a frosted mug) first thing, and placing your order when it arrives.

What should you order?  That’s easy, keep reading —

Deciding what to order is easy, and be prepared for it to arrive at your table seconds after you gotten the words out of your mouth.  Ordering is basically all about size, as one item dominates the menu – carne en jugo (beef in juice).  This is basically a tasty beef stew, cooked in its own broth and flavored with bacon, beans, tomatoes, and spices.  There are a few other items on the menu, but I’ve never ordered them.  The reason I go here is for the carne en jugo.  Orders come in sizes ranging from extra small to extra large, and I recommend choosing your size and then get ready to dig in.

When your carne en jugo arrives there are a couple of ways to eat it.  Tourists (and there are usually not a lot in the restaurant) tend to scoop the meat out of the juice, drop it into a tortilla, add a few condiments and eat it like a taco.  Sure, I tried it like that the first couple times as well.  But after going there with some local friends, I’d like to think that I’ve learned better, and now eat it like a local.  Locals eat is as a soup or stew, adding a variety of condiments to the meat and broth, including radishes, chopped onions and salsa.  Then roll up a tortilla in one hand, and eat it as you would a piece of bread, and use a spoon to enjoy every bite of the carne en jugo.  You can also add the grilled bulb onions, although they are sweet and yummy eaten plain.

The service is not just fast, but also attentive.  An empty mug will get a request if you’d like another.  When the tortillas or refried beans run low, they’ll be replenished without prompting.  The service in unobtrusive, but I like chatting with the servers and asking them their favorite things to do in their city.  There are times when I’m there every week, and it’s nice when they start to remember me.

My recommended order would be a medium, with a couple beers.  The price for that will vary based on the exchange rate, but that order with a generous tip will come in around $6.  I always have leftovers, and they are extremely gracious about packing them up and including all the extras (usually replenished).

I frequent the location across the street from Plaza del Sol (Mariano Otero 3019, Zona Plaza del Sol),although there are other locations around the area.  Hours are 11 am – 11 pm every day but Sunday, when it closes at 6 pm.  Credit cards are accepted.  Casual dress is okay, but be aware that casual by Guadalajara standards is more dressed up than by US standards.

I enjoy this place.  And it’s not a tourist restaurant, despite the whole Guinness record thing.  The majority of the patrons are locals.  The staff does not speak much English, although they do a great job of communicating.  The language difference is not a problem, and you’ll be fine.  Just remember, you’re in Mexico and it’s expected that people will speak Spanish!

I’ve yet to find anywhere here at home where they serve carne en jugo, so I think this is just a Guadalajara specialty.  I’d love to get my fix a little closer to home,though.

Photo credits:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Contrast that very modern business core with one of the oldest and most beautiful structures in the city – the Guadalajara Cathedral, a minor basilica that is part of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Guadalajara.  Located in the downtown Centro Histórico (Avenue16 de Septiembre, Hidalgo y Morelos), the neo-Gothic towers of the Cathedral dominate the skyline.

Originally built during the 16-17th century, parts of it have been destroyed by fire, earthquake, and the ravages of time.  Repairs and rebuilding have attempted to keep as much as possible.

Walking into the cathedral is like taking a big step back in time.  The main altar is made of marble and silver, but you’ll also find ten other altars around the side of the cathedral.  Behind the main altar are sufficient chairs to seat the council of Cardinals.  The cathedral has beautiful stained glass (imported from France, and reminiscent of Notre Dame), many religious artifacts and pieces of art, a mural by Mexican artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, and relics of St. Innocent (among others).  This is also home to the largest organ in the country.

Surrounding the cathedral are spacious plazas perfect for strolling, getting a bite to eat, people watching, or enjoying the many artisans the set up shop here.  Don’t hurry through!  Slow down your pace, and enjoy the culture and history of Guadalajara.

Photo credit:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Here’s a photo slide show of a recent trip to Guadalajara, Mexico.

Make a Smilebox slideshow

This is a fun way to share some travel photos with you, so let me know how you like it.

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Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Market days will find the neighborhoods full of good displayed on the sidewalks, and often spilling out into the streets.  Ceramics, pottery, glassware, papier mâché items are all good buys.

If you practiced up on your Spanish, it will come in handy.  Although many locals do speak a little English, it’s probably going to take a fair amount of Spanish, English, and some gestures, to make yourself understood.  My Spanish is pretty rusty, but I gave it a good try, and really didn’t have any problems.

On market days, start your exploration from the main plaza at Juarez and Hidalgo .  Pick a direction and start wandering.  Many of the shops also serve as the family home, with the entire family involved in the business.  After awhile a lot of the products will look the same, and there’s not a lot of variation in price.  Find someone who’s a pleasure to do business with, and enjoy the transaction.

This plaza area also has lots of shops that feature more elaborate and decorative pieces, including wall hangings, furniture, and large ceramic and glass pieces.  Some of these shops take credit cards and will assist in arranging for shipping.

Should I still plan a visit if it’s not a market day?  Keep reading to find out!

Even if you’re not there on market day, a visit to Tonalá is enjoyable and can still yield great shopping.  Visit the ceramic and glass factories to get better prices than you’ll see most anywhere else.  These factories supply the shops in nearby Tlaquepaque, so you know that a trip to the source will mean better prices. 

Start at the main thoroughfare of Avenida de Los Tonaltecas on the edge of the downtown area.  The shops will be dusty and cluttered, the shelves rickety and crudely put together, and the products poorly displayed.  But here you’ll find good bargains.  Just remember, prettier displays and dusting equals higher prices!  The selections will vary slightly from place to place, although pricing is reasonably consistent.  The prices quoted were so incredibly fair and reasonable, that I was embarrassed to bargain.  That’s just the way I am – I don’t mind paying a fair price, nor do I begrudge anyone making a living.

One of the more popular purchases in Tonalá is the recognizable clear glasses with the blue rims.  While this color is the traditional one, and seen at many restaurants, bars, and upscale stores here in the United States, other colors are also becoming quite popular.  You’ll also find frosted glasses, and colorfully painted and decorated ones.

This video provides a nice sample display of some of the items you’ll find in Tonalá:

Here are some prices, listed in dollars, from a recent visit.  Variations will occur based on color, size, quantity purchased, and, of course, the exchange rate.  These are hand blown items, and each piece in unique.  Variations are to be expected. . . and enjoyed!

• Glass margarita pitcher and set of six margarita glasses – around $10-12(depending on size)
• Iced tea pitcher with six tumblers – around $8
• Small pitchers (for cream, syrup, etc.) – around $1 (depending on size)
• Large pitchers (for lemonade, sangria, etc.) – $3-6 (depending on size)
• Glass hanging wall masks with candle holder – around $6
• Wine glasses – $1-3 (depending on size and style)

You’re going to need to bring pesos, as most of the factories and shops do not accept credit cards or U.S. currency. 

Tonalá is about 20 minutes from Guadalajara by taxi (about $13), and about 45 minutes by local bus (about $1).  Taking the bus is a lot of fun, but if you’re doing a lot of shopping, it may be easier to take a taxi for the return trip when you’re toting lots of packages.

Photo credit: flickr

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Post from: Fly Away Cafe

I’ve been sick this month, and have spent the entire time on bed rest, recuperating from a bout of pneumonia.  It hasn’t been any fun being grounded, and I’ve missed out on a great month of flying (wonderful layovers), as well as all the fun things here at home in Seattle.

One of the things that has made this month bearable (well, in addition to my wonderful friends who have checked in on me) has been going through some travel photos from previous trips. . .

. . . like this one from a stay in Mexico earlier this year.

I’ll be heading back to Mexico next month.  This time away from the beach, and into more central Mexico, to Guadalajara. 

Since it’s been close to 15 years since I was last there, I’m sure there have been lots of changes.  It will be almost like visiting the city for the first time. I have lots of ideas about thing to see and do, but if any readers know any must-see places, fun restaurants, bars, or cafes, or any other recommendations, I’d love to hear about them!

Photo credit: personal collection

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Post from: Fly Away Cafe

What I always loved about Guadalajara, was that it was a “real” city, as opposed to the beach cities.  Although tourism plays an important of the economic fabric of the Guadalajara, the city is also home to several universities, and, along with Mexico City, is a center for international commerce.

I’m sure that a lot of things have changed since I’ve been there, but I remember having a lot of fun shopping at Tlaquepaque, Tonola, Trocadero, and the Mercado Libertad.  And watching the glass blowers, artisans, buying delicious freshly roasted coffee beans, and savoring freshly made tortillas with a cold margarita.

Some of those landmark sites will still be there, of course.  But I know those of those little cafe, bars, and little shops that I loved are probably gone or have changed hands.  I’m going to try to find some of those old favorites, but am hoping that you can help me find some new ones.

Do you have some favorite places in Guadalajara?  A great place for a simple bite to eat and a cold beverage?  Some place that has a nice selection of local art?  The best place to find some nice gift ideas?

Please take a minute to either leave your suggestions in the comments, or email me directly.  I’m hoping you can make my time in Guadalajara the very best that it can be!

Photo credit: flickr

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Post from: Fly Away Cafe