While normally I am a big fan of public transportation, and opt for trains, planes, and buses while on vacation, our trek to Italy and Croatia required covering a lot of ground to remote locations.  A car was a necessity.

Although the driving was left in the hands of the guys, we’ve covered enough ground that I can make a few observations (albeit from the passenger’s seat) about driving in Italy.

• People drive fast on the Autostrada.  Really, really, fast!
• Tailgating seems not only permissible, but encouraged.  Even when you’re going fast on the Autostrada.  Leaving any discernible gap between the car ahead of you is an invitation for someone to pass.
• You need a navigator or two to read the map and watch for directional signs.  When you blowing by them at speeds of 100+ kph, you need some extra eyes reading them.
• All roads lead to Rome – or so it seemed – as no matter where you are there is a sign pointing you toward Rome.
• In rural areas, you’ll find lots of narrow roads, frequently on the side of a mountain, and frequently containing lots of switchbacks.  People still drive fast.
• When you are driving along the steep side of a mountain, you probably won’t find any guardrails or warning reflectors.
• On these narrow winding roads, drivers will pass on a curve.  And sometimes that driver is in a large bus or truck.
• In the small, picturesque hill towns, the roads are very narrow and rarely go straight.  People drive on them, even though there is very little room on either side of the car.  We did this once, and in error.  The photo shows the street, a term used loosely, that we drove down.  Most of the time we parked and walked.
• Don’t expect drivers to stop for you in a cross walk. You’re going to need to dash across the street.

The stereotype of aggressive Italian drivers has some roots of truth, but these observations are not meant to be demeaning.  We soon found ourselves conforming to many of these driving habits as well.

If you’re staying in one of the larger cities like Rome, Florence, or Milan, you’ll probably have no need for a car.  If you want to take a day trip, you can rent one for a day or two.  But, if you’re going to explore the beautiful rural areas of the country, like Tuscany or Umbria, you’ll need to have a car.

Have you driven in Italy?

Photo credit:  personal collection

It seems like there are certain constants no matter where you happen to be.  No matter how far I go, it seems that I can’t escape McDonald’s and its golden arches.

Needing a bit of a stretch break, along with wanting some coffee and a bit of nourishment for the road, our band of travelers stopped at the “ristop” just off the autostrada (A-1) south of Milan.

I’m not a McDonald’s kind of gal.  No apologies – it’s just not my fast food preference.

Fortunately for me, right next to the burger and fries counter was a wonderful selection of pastries, paninis (sandwich), and coffee.  Our traveling snack turned out to be a hit, not a miss.

Photo credit:  personal collection

I’m traveling in Europe for a bit, and spent an enjoyable few days at Lake Maggiore.  While I’ll have more in depth posts after I return home and have a chance to marshal my thoughts, I’ll be posting a few photos and quick thoughts from the road.

Lake Maggiore isn’t the largest of the Italian Lakes, but it is the longest, stretching about 40 miles from Sesto Calende at the Italian end to Magadino at the Swiss end.  The east side of the lake is in the Lombardy region and the west in Piedmonte.  The lake area is considered pre-Alp, and the area surrounding it is a mixture of hills and mountains that eventually lead to the Alps.

Around the lakes are numerous little town (or communes), each with its own flavor and ambience.  Most of the towns are quiet and casual, although their are a few that have rather opulent hotels and cafes.  I much preferred the casual, laid back spots, drinking coffee and eating where the locals were.   There is, however, most likely a town that will appeal, no matter what your preferences are.

With a location that provides a steady supply of wind, Lake Maggiore is also a popular spot for windsurfing and sailing.

Photo credits:  personal collection

I’m under three weeks and counting down before I leave for Italy.  I can’t begin to tell you how excited I am to go back – well, actually I can tell you and probably will!  Many times!

Among the other travels planned, I’ll be spending two weeks in Tuscany, staying in an agriturismo – an apartment located in a farmhouse that’s on a working olive orchard and small vineyard.

One of the many things that I like about Tuscany is the slower pace of things.  For me, touring there consists largely of visiting the various hill towns, sitting in cafes drinking coffee or wine, and lots of wonderful and reasonably priced food.  We’ll be visiting the towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano, Siena and San Quirico, Pisa and Pienza, and some towns that we didn’t have the opportunity to visit on the last trip.

I love this area, because it’s a slower pace than the busy cities of Rome or Milan, and there are plenty of towns where sheep out number people.  Driving along the winding back roads, it’s not uncommon to be brought to a stop by herds of sheep crossing the road.  No point in getting antsy or frustrated, this is farm country at its heart, you just need to sit and relax – or get out of the car and take some photos.

Sheep have the right of way!

NOTE:  Some of my other favorite travel bloggers share their favorite travel photos on Photo Friday.  Take a look, there are lots of great stories and adventures to tempt you into a life full of rich travel experiences.

Photo credit:  personal collection

The Enchanted April DVD will be winging its way out to Karen (who blogs at Thrifty Mommy) with her comment:

I have never been out of the US, so I’m sure any place in Italy would be great!

After watching this movie, you’ll be dying to go to Italy, I’m sure.  And yes, Italy is GREAT 

There are all sorts of thrifty ways to save up for travel, as well as ways to manage expenses while on the road.  So maybe we’ll be seeing some of those kinds of tips from Karen. 

I hope you enjoy the movie, Karen.  I know I did!  (You can read what I thought about the movie in my movie review.)

A very BIG THANKS to Miramax and Walt Disney Studios Home Entertainment for providing the Enchanted April DVD for a giveaway.  It’s available for purchase at your favorite online or brick and mortal store.

Photo credit:  SXC

Regular readers already know that I’ll be leaving for a trip to Italy next month.  For the last several weeks, you’ve probably noticed a little more Italian-themed posts creeping into the blog.

When I was asked if I’d like to review the movie Enchanted April, being released on DVD today, you know that I jumped at the opportunity.

Enchanted April is the story of two English women who decide to liven up their dreary lives by doing the unthinkable – renting a castle on the Italian Riviera, complete with staff. 

In 1920’s London, this degree of independence by women, to say nothing of deciding to spend their husband’s money in this way, is nothing short of daring.  In order to afford a month on the Riviera, the women must share the expenses with two other women, one a crusty and lonely widow, and the other a beautiful and aristocratic flapper.

These four women settle into a spectacular castle, draped with wisteria vines, and surrounded by beautiful, sunny gardens.  As you might expect when you throw together such an eclectic mix of personalities, there are fits and starts of friendship and pique, before a rhythm of life and friendship settles in.  By the time the husbands show up at the castle, the women have found new meaning in their life, and you know they’ll return to London with a renewed sense of purpose and joi de vivre.

I enjoyed the movie, not only for its rich, lush photography of Italy, teasing me that I’ll be there soon, but also because of how it explores the nature of women’s friendships.  As rich and lush as the scenery, if perhaps just a bit more complicated.  You can watch and decide for yourself.

After watching the film the first time, I’d recommend watching it a second time with the feature commentary.  It’s a second look at the movie, this time through the eyes of the director and producer.  They talk about why they made the choices they did, how they envisioned the characters and their friendships, and it’s a great way of exploring the movie a little more in depth.

The cast includes:  Josie Lawrence, Miranda Richardson, Joan Plowright, and Polly Walker as the four Englishwomen, and Alfred Molina and Jim Broadbent as the husbands.  The film received two Golden Globes, and was nominated for three Oscars.  You can now purchase it on DVD through your local store or online.

OR – you can enter for a chance to win a copy of the DVD right here at Flyaway Cafe!  Thanks Miramax and Walt Disney Studios Home Entertainment!

All you have to do is leave a comment telling me your favorite place in Italy (whether you’ve been there or just dream of being there).  I’ll keep the comments open until Friday at midnight (Pacific Time), and then pick a random winner.  

Photo credit:  Courtesy of Miramax and Walt Disney Studios Home Entertainment

I have a long list of places that I want to go and things that I want to see.  Sometimes, however, I just can’t decide what to do.  That’s when a little help from my friends is so important – and I’m hoping that you can help.

l will be heading off to Italy in June, and find myself with a couple of days that I don’t have plans.  And when I say NO PLAN, I really mean NO PLANS AT ALL.

Here’s what I have:

I’ll be arriving in Milan after an all night flight from the US with two other adults.  The flight arrives mid-morning, and I will have roughly 48 hours before I need to be en route (via rental car or train) to Tuscany.  48 hours can cover a lot of ground, but commuting time has to be taken into consideration.  I don’t want to spend the entire time on the train or the road.

So what should I do?

Do I have time to enjoy the natural beauty in the Dolomites?  Should I spend some time visiting the canals of Venice (recently cited as the most expensive city in Europe)?  Should I head off to Lake Como?  Or to Bologna, Florence, or maybe even drive over to Serbia?  And of course, I could always stay in Milan, Italy’s fashion capital.  Where have I forgotten?  So many choices, but I’m stymied.

So hopefully you’ll chime in with a recommendation – what would you do with these 48 hours?  Please leave your suggestions in the comments.

Photo credit: wikimedia

Today I join with some of my fellow travel bloggers in Photo Friday, a day to celebrate the photographic side of traveling.

Whether our photos are professional quality, or merely serve as a memory of a wonderful adventure, photos have become an increasingly important part of travel.  And in the era of so many digital options, from cameras to online storage to editing software and more, there’s no reason for it to be a complicated process. (I’ve been trying out some new products so look for some reviews coming up soon!)

My photo today is a wonderful memory of a trip to the Pompeii ruins.  Located near Naples, Italy, Pompeii was destroyed during a two day eruption of Mount Vesuvius back in 79 AD.  The city was buried under ash and pumice, and for nearly 1700 years was presumed lost until its accidental re-discovery in the mid-1700’s.   The subsequent excavation of the site has been a glimpse at what life was like during the height of the Roman Empire.

Today, Pompeii is a popular tourist attraction, and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Millions of visitors explore the site each year, along with its sister city of Herculaneum.

I spent a full day wandering the ruins.  It was interesting getting a feel for how the city was laid out before the eruption, and noting how some building were totally decimated while others had major walls and other components left standing.  Some of the artwork that survived was amazing!  During the spring and summer months, the ruins are open from 8:30 am – 7:30 pm, and during the fall and winter till 5 pm.  A one day ticket is

To get to Pompeii, take the Circumvesuviana train to the Pompei stop.  The entrance to the ruins is just a short walk from the station.  One day admission is €11,00, and a 3-day admission covering 5 sites (Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis, Stabiae, and Boscoreale) is €20,00.  EU visitors under 18 or over 65, are FREE.  EU visitors ages 18-24 and teachers are half price.

Here are my suggestions on how to enjoy a visit to the ruins:

Plan to spend a full day.  There’s lots to see, and you will want time to explore what interests you.

• Wear comfortable flat walking shoes as you’ll be on your feet all day, and the site is hilly with uneven paths.  It may not have been polite, but I laughed at the people I saw trying to navigate the site in heels.
• Leave the strollers at home.  I saw people trying to push strollers up and down, but honestly, I’m not sure this is the best attraction for rolling along with the little ones.
• Opt for the audio guide.  While I didn’t follow along and listen to the entire guide, there are lots of sites numbered that match up with the guide.  I was interested in enough things to make it well worth the small additional charge.
• Bring water for certain, maybe a snack. You’ll want something to drink as you’re walking around.  You can buy food and beverage onsite, but bringing your own is both more convenient and cheaper (although onsite prices weren’t horrible).
• Don’t make big plans for the evening after visiting.  After a full day of wandering in the heat (it was March and quite warm), I was exhausted.  All I wanted was an easy evening in rather than a night on the town.

Photo credit:  personal collection

Today’s Matchbook Monday comes from best pal, Anita, and is from the Hotel Poli in Castelnovo di Sotto, Italy. 

Documents date the town back to at least 980 AD, but even earlier it was invaded by the Gauls.  The town’s origin was most likely as a castle, and at its center was an old fortress dating back to the time of the invasions.  Today the fort serves at the town hall, and the town spreads out from that hub.

Hotel Poli is a 3-star moderately priced hotel in the center of town, giving it a great location for exploring.  The hotel has 53 rooms, all with balconies, and include modern amenities – including internet access.

Adjacent to the hotel are eight vacation apartments of various sizes that will sleep up to three people.  All apartments include a kitchenette, living area, and porch and make for a nice combination of hotel amenities and personal privacy.

This looks like a charming little town and affordable hotel to serve as home base for exploring the Reggio Emilia area.

Location:  A vacant hallway at the Vatican.  The artwork on the ceiling was as intricate and detailed as that on the walls.  And the floor was so shiny that it might as well have been a mirror.

Image credit:  Personal collection

________________________________________