Lake Maggiore, with its low key atmosphere, has an extensive network of ferry service around and across the lake.  In fact, ferries have landing stages in nearly every town along the lake, making it quite easy to get most places by boat.  In addition to the traditional (and slower) ferry, there is also hydrofoil service.  Not only is it a faster boat, but it has more direct service, rather than stopping at all the smaller towns.  The boats generally operate between 7 am – 8 pm, with a reduced schedule in the winter.  Fares can be found on a chart, and have a scale based on where you want to go.  Hydrofoils have a small surcharge.

Our first full day at the Lake, we struck out fairly early for the Borromeo Islands.  The Borromeo’s are three islands located in the bay between Stresa and Pallanza.  Although collectively they are referred to as the Borromeo Islands, only to are actually Borromeo property.  Our first stop was Isola Madre, the largest of the islands.  Although Isola Madre is the largest island, it is much lest visited than the others.  It is reachable by the public ferries, which dock on the south side of the island, as well as by private tour boats, which dock at a private boat dock near the restaurant.

The description of the island refers to it as a “modest” villa with natural gardens, but that does a disservice to its beautiful grounds and setting.  After you get off the ferry, you head up some steps to a terrace level where you’ll find the ticket office.  After purchasing your ticket (Admission is 10 Euros, and you can purchase a joint ticket for admission to both Isola Madre and Isola Bella for 16.50 Euros), you can turn right to go directly into the grounds, or turn left for a short walk to the cafe and private boat dock.  When you get your tickets be sure to pick up the FREE map so that you can follow along and understand what you are seeing as you pass through the various gardens.

Walking through Isola Madre is like walking through the world by way of their gardens.  With nearly every type of growing climate represented on the island, the variety of plants range from the usual (olive trees, azaleas, wisteria, and camellia) to the exotic (African tropical flowers, hibiscus, Ginkgo biloba).  Walking along the gravel pathway propels you by fragrant citron and lemon trees, past rare plants and exotic flowers, and you gradually walk your way to the top of the island.

On the northern-ish side of the island is Piazzale dei Pappagalli, home to families of peacock, parrots, and pheasants.  Most roam free, so be careful where you walk.  While they aren’t tame, by any means, if you don’t move too quickly, you’ll find that they strut and preen about, ignoring your presence.  You can watch their mating dances, as they open their tail feathers.

Continuing on the walking path will eventually lead to the top of the island at the Borromeo family home.  In front of the home is the Loggia del Cashmir, a Cashmere Cypress that is over 200 years old, and the largest one in Europe.  The tree received some damage in a tornado (yes, a tornado hit this small island a number of years ago), and it is now bolstered with cables and lines.

At this point in our visit, it started to rain, so we made the logical choice to duck inside the villa and tour it during the downpour.

The villa was a 16th century palace, although it was never the primary residence of the Borromeo family.  It was more of a second home (or third, or fourth), and was finished with odds and ends taken from their other homes.  The home fell into disrepair and was closed up for some time, before restoration began.  It was eventually open to the public in 1978, with numerous of the Borromeo collections on display.  The Teatrini delle Marionette (puppet theater) was a hit with most of the visitors.  There were a fair number of evil puppets, along with scenes of hell and damnation.  I thought is seemed rather dark and ghoulish for a children’s theater.  But apparently, that’s just me.

Touring the villa can easily be done in half an hour or so, although we dawdled until the rain passed.  Walk out of the villa and down the steps to the Piazzale della Cappella, an outdoor water garden, that includes a pond with beautiful water lilies in vibrant colors of pink, white, red, and yellow.  Around the pond are hibiscus, coffee, mimosa and banana plants.  It’s busy with color, but tranquil in effect.

To the side of the pond is a small mortuary chapel, and to the other side is the requisite gift shop.  If it’s a nice day, take the time to enjoy the sun and sit for a bit.  It’s a nice spot to rest up before heading back to the ferry.

Isola Madre is definitely worth the visit.  It wasn’t crowded, even when it rained and people went inside, lines were short (even in summer), and you could walk and stop at your own speed.  I found that much of the time our group would just walk and look about, taking in the surroundings of both the gardens and the lake.  We stopped often to look at something closer, and to take LOTS of photos, and the pace seem natural and enjoyable.  We spent a couple of hours at Isola Madre, finding it a great way to ease into our first full day at Lake Maggiore.

Photo credit:  Mary Jo Manzanares

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

I started mapping out what was do-able from Milan, and would still allow us to get to Tuscany timely.  Given our time frame, we would need to stay in northern Italy.  There were lots of ideas floating around, but I knew we were missing something.  So I put the call out to my circle of experts via Twitter as well as using a couple of other media services.  I asked people what I should do and why.  Basically, I wanted to be persuaded about what I should see and do in northern Italy.

Lots of ideas came in, and I sifted through them all.  I looked at the transportation requirements (we eventually decided to rent a car in Milan), travel time, what there was to do (we were looking for a combination of relaxation and sightseeing, but there had to be good food around), as well as a chance for us to see things we had not yet seen.  I did a lot more research, because one way to help ensure your vacation is a great one, is to do your research before making your decision.

The commune of Maccagno is on the northeastern part of Lake Maggiore, Italy

Finally we decided to spend a few days at Lake Maggiore.

We chose Lake Maggiore because of it’s low-keyed, relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere.  I liked getting away from Milan, and the high-fashion demands of the city.  Kicking back lake-side, strolling along the promenades, spending a little time on the lake, and recharging after nearly 24 hours of traveling, sounded absolutely perfect.  Plus, and this really weighted heavily in its favor, Lake Maggiore was partially in Italy and partially in Switzerland.  That meant I could easily make a trip across the border, checking off an additional country visit for the Century Club.

With the location decided, I continued to ask for information and recommendations about what to do and see.  A visit to the Borromeo Islands was on everyone’s list, so this went onto ours, too.   Other than a quick trip across the Swiss border, we left the rest of our time there unplanned.

How did it turn out?

Fabulous!

Check back for a report about our stay at Golfo Gabella, located right on the lake in the small town of Maccagno on the eastern side — and a mere five and a half miles from the Swiss border!

Photo credits:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Lake Maggiore isn’t the largest of the Italian Lakes, but it is the longest, stretching about 40 miles from Sesto Calende at the Italian end to Magadino at the Swiss end.  The east side of the lake is in the Lombardy region and the west in Piedmonte.  The lake area is considered pre-Alp, and the area surrounding it is a mixture of hills and mountains that eventually lead to the Alps.

Around the lakes are numerous little town (or communes), each with its own flavor and ambience.  Most of the towns are quiet and casual, although their are a few that have rather opulent hotels and cafes.  I much preferred the casual, laid back spots, drinking coffee and eating where the locals were.   There is, however, most likely a town that will appeal, no matter what your preferences are.

With a location that provides a steady supply of wind, Lake Maggiore is also a popular spot for windsurfing and sailing.

Photo credits:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe