The nice people at Detroit Public Television were kind enough to offer me a review set of Secrets of the Vatican Collection, a 5-disc DVD documentary that is a wonderful profile of the Vatican, it’s history, art, life, and day-to-day workings.  This small city state, located a stone’s throw from Rome, has a rich history, full of tradition, yet must still exist in the modern world.

This 14-part documentary premiered on Public TV earlier this year, and gives an in depth look at the public and private sides of the Vatican and its operation.  The episodes have been collected into 4 DVD’s, and a fifth bonus DVD added that is a highlight of what you’ll see in the full series.

Topics covered, along with some of my personal commentary:

Disc 1:  Here is Peter, The Conclave of Cardinals, A Little State in the Shadow of the Church, and Divisions of His Holiness

For me, this was the weakest of the discs.  It was historical, and should have been interesting, but I found the narrative unnecessarily dry, and in some places downright boring.  Nonetheless, the information lays the foundation for what is to come.  I was a bit concerned after watching this disc about what was to come.

Disc 2:  St. Peter’s Basilica, Papal Operations and Workers, and The Pope’s Transportation.

Things start to pick up with this disc!  I didn’t have a chance to visit St. Peter’s Basilica, so the tour through it, along with the explanation of its history, architecture, and art, made me wish that I had been able to make time for a tour.  Next time!  Papal Operations covered a lot of the day-to-day stuff of what it takes to keep the Vatican running on a day-to-day basis, and a little background about the people who make it happen.  I didn’t know there was a farm and a dairy.  The Pope’s Transportation covered some of the old coaches, antique automobiles, the Papal chair, on  up to the Pope-mobile.  The Pope’s license plate?  SCV1.  You’ll find many of these the cars on display at the Vatican Museum.

Disk 3:  Papal Antiques, The Papal Gardens, Vatican Residents, and Art Hospital.

A tour through the Vatican Museum will let you know that there’s a lot of art and antiques in the Vatican, and it was interesting, but not surprising, to learn more about them and how they are cared for.  From a window in the Museum, I caught a glimpse of the gardens, and I enjoyed this segment immensely.  These gardens have remained in place for over 800 years.  Learning about what was in the gardens, how it was maintained, and how it provided a respite for the Pontiff, was incredibly interesting.  While it’s easy to think of the Vatican as the Pope’s home, in fact, there are many people in residence there.  I LOVED learning about the Swiss Guards, and the interview with the wife of one of them was incredibly fascinating.  I watched this section a couple of times, and picked up a few more things each time.

Disk 4:  St Peter’s Media, Passing by of Time and the Present, and Sistine Chapel.

Another fascinating look at a side of the Vatican that I had never thought off, the Press Office of the Holy See.  Talk about some serious PR strategies!  This disc also provided a look at the evolution of the Vatican, and traced some history and policies up to current time.  While much has remained the same, steeped deeply in tradition, religious and otherwise, it is still a city/state that has to face modern challenges much like the rest of the world.  The segment on the Sistine Chapel was a great explanation of many of the things that I saw when I visited.

If you’re planning a visit to the Vatican, I’d recommend viewing the DVD set BEFORE going.  It provides a history and framework of what you’ll see, and some of the bits of information and trivia will give you a richer experience and understanding when you visit.  I’d then recommend watching it again upon your return.  This second viewing will fill in some of the gaps between the first viewing and your visit, and I’ll bet there will be a few “aha” moments, and you remember some things that you saw on your visit.

Disc 5:  Highlights

I watched this last, and I probably should have watched it first.  It provides a nice overview and explanation of what is to come.

The Secrets of the Vatican Collection is available from Amazon for $23.99.  It’s a good personal purchase, and would also make a great gift if you know someone who has a Rome vacation planned.

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AAA Travel Views – I found myself nodding in agreement as the author explained that he wasn’t a typical Branson visitor, but he made an exception for Paul Revere & the Raiders.  Since they were a band from my teen years, I can relate.

Intelligent Travel – It’s winter down under, and Vivid Sydney is a cultural extravaganza designed to turn the city into a canvas of light and sound.

The Amsterdam Guide – When’s the best time to visit Amsterdam?  Any time!  And here’s why.

Blisstree – Coq au Vin is a classic French dish that many people fall in love with when they have it in Paris.  Here’s how you can recreate it at home – and it’s not that difficult.

My Melange – A tantalizing review of Tazza d’Oro in Rome reminds me that it’s only 18 days till I leave for Italy.

The New York City Traveler – A tour New York’s famous Zabar’s, a great spot to pick up treats for a picnic.  I haven’t been there for quite some time, but this took me back.

Traveling Mamas – Exploring a city that I’ve not been to — Sedona, Arizona.  Lots of great suggestions on how to enjoy the beautiful outdoors of this area.

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Built between AD 72-80, the Coliseum was originally called the Flavian Amphitheater and was the center of the city of Rome.  It was the first and the largest (it covers about six acres) permanent amphitheater built in the Roman Empire.

The exterior of the building consisted of four floors – three tiers of arches and an attic. On top of the attic were a series of brackets and sockets that allowed a shade to be pulled over the arena for sun protection, and a canopy that could be pulled over to protect guests from the rain.  It was a fairly complex system that may have served as the forerunner to the many stadium and arenas today that have a retractable roof.

Anyone who has seen Russell Crowe in the movie Gladiator, has a pretty good idea of how the Coliseum operated.

80 doorways led into the interior arena area, with tiers of marble benches for spectators.  Seating was arranged by rank, with the emperor and noblemen at the front, and working men and women at the rear.  It was an efficient seating plan that allowed for the smooth arrival and departure of nearly 50,000 spectators.

Originally, the arena floor was wooden with sand over it.  There were various trapdoors that opened up letting lions and other ferocious beast enter the arena.  (You can still see the outline of many of those trapdoors today.)  There was also a fairly advanced underground aqueduct system that allowed the floor to be flooded for water battles.  This is where the gladiator battles and other public spectacles took place – the ultimate battle between the lions and Christians.  Many of both died in the games.

So what happened after the gladiators?  Keep reading to find out more!

In the middle ages, the Coliseum was used as a fortress and a quarry, but in 1749 Pope Benedict XIV declared it a sacred site where early Christians had been martyred.  Stations of the Cross were installed and it became a holy structure, although one that was allowed to fall into disrepair.

During the 19th century conservation of the Coliseum began, and its ties to the Catholic Church renewed.  In recent years, it has become a symbol of the international campaign against the death penalty, and the night illumination changes from white to gold whenever a death sentences is commuted, the prisoner released, or if a jurisdiction abolishes the death penalty. In December 2007 it was lit in gold when New Jersey abolished the death penalty.

Although the interior of the Coliseum is in ruins, you can still see several of the marble benches from early days.  It is used for an occasional event (a few hundred spectators can be accommodated in temporary seating), and larger events like concerts have been held outside the arena on the grounds.  Paul McCartney and Elton John both had concerts on the amphitheater grounds.  Each year on Good Friday, the Pope leads a torch lit procession for the Stations of the Cross.

The exterior grounds of the Coliseum can be wandered at no charge.  Look out for the young men dressed up like gladiators who’ll stand with you for a photo.  There’s a fee involved.   You can walked around the entire perimeter, enjoy the grounds,  marvel at the architecture, and soak in the feel of history.

Admission is charged to get inside, although EU citizens, students, and seniors have a reduced rate.  Timed tickets are available in advance or you can buy them at the Palatine.  The lines are shorter there than at the Coliseum itself, and the ticket covers admission to both sites.  An audio tour is available for an additional charge.

Of all the things that I saw in Rome, and there were lots of impressive things, the Coliseum was the highlight.  It was my first glimpse of the city.  I came up from the train station and stood for a minute clearing my head and getting my bearings.  I looked up at the Coliseum directly in front of me.  I stood there, across the street from history, and it simply took my breath away.

Photo credits:  all from personal collection

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Location:  A vacant hallway at the Vatican.  The artwork on the ceiling was as intricate and detailed as that on the walls.  And the floor was so shiny that it might as well have been a mirror.

Image credit:  Personal collection

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The imposing cylindrical Castel Sant’Angelo, situated along the Tiber River in Rome, was built between 123 and 129 AD.  It was first known as the Mausoleum of Hadrian, serving as the resting grounds for the ashes of the Roman emperor.  Ashes of Hadrian’s family, as well as subsequent emperors, joined him there.

The tomb was ransacked during one of Rome’s less civilized periods, and the Castel Sant’angelo was later used as a fortress (Popes hid out here), castle (connected to St. Peter’s Basilica by a covered corridor), and prison (executions were held in the interior square). 

Today it is the location of the National Museum’s collections of weapons, ceramics, furnishings, and Renaissance paintings, and still a formidable presence on the Rome’s skyline.

It’s worth stopping by to look at the architecture and history of the building, and the great views, and much as it is to view the collections.  There’s a beautiful papal apartment inside, built to accommodate a Pope in the event of a siege upon the Vatican,  and an interior spiral ramp that dates back to the original mausoleum days.  Rumor has it that there’s also a special art room, but since I didn’t personally see it, it must remain a rumor for me.

The Castel Sant’angelo is an easy stop off after seeing the Vatican.  Walk back toward the city, and you can’t miss it.  The crowds are substantially less, meaning you can take a far more leisurely approach to what you are seeing.  I’d recommend allowing 60-90 minutes, depending on what piques your curiosity.  There are lots of photo ops!

You’ll find the Castel Sant’angelo at Lungotevere del Castello 50.  This is near the Ponte Sant’angelo ( St. Angelo Bridge).  Seriously, head toward the bridge and you can’t miss it. 

Open hours are Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am – 6:30 pm.  Closed on Mondays, Christmas Day, and New Years Day.  Admission was 5 euros for adults, and those under 18 admitted FREE.

Photo credit: Personal collection

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The Baroque-style fountain, designed by architect Nicola Salvi, is located in a busy section of the city, not far from the popular Via del Corso.

To get to the fountain you walk down narrow streets, some of which seem more like alleys than streets, to the historic center of Rome.  You can hear the noise of the fountain as your approach the piazza, and it gets louder as you approach.

Then, you step into the Piazza di Trevi and before you is the majestic Baroque-style fountain with its intricate sculptures, cascading water, and faded stones.  The design is a tribute to the power and lushness of the sea, both in its design and the roaring water spilling over the rocks.

The fountain, which was completed in 1762, is about 85 feet high and 65 fee4t wide, and presented almost theater-style (especially noticeable when seen from overhead).  

Against the backdrop of the fountain is a large sculpture of Oceanus in the center, along with chariot in the shape of a shell drawn by seahorses.  Additional sculptures flank each side of Oceanus, resting in the niches.  In the water are additional sculptures representing sea creatures, both real and mythological. 

I was expecting something pretty cool — but walking into that Piazza and seeing the fountain for the first time was incredible!  I visited during the late afternoon and also in the evening, both times the Piazza was full of people and energy.  The glow of the fountain in the evening was beautiful and quite romantic.

Even if you haven’t visited Rome, you may have seen Trevi Fountain in the movies:

• In Three Coins in the Fountain (1954), three American roommates working in Italy wish for the man of their dreams after throwing coins into Trevi Fountain.
• In La Dolce Vita (1960), you see Anita Ekberg jumping into the fountain (fully clothed), inviting Marcello Mastroianni to join her.
• In the Lizzie McGuire Movie (2003), Hillary Duff graduated middle school and vacations in Italy.

So what’s with the coin throwing tradition?  Keep reading to find out.

There are a couple of variations on the coin throwing story, all rooted in tradition and interpretation.

The most popular interpretation is that throwing a coin over your shoulder into the water of the fountain will ensure a return visit to Rome.

A current version of this tradition is throwing three coins with the right hand over the left shoulder.  This tradition of three coins probably comes from the movie Three Coins in the Fountain.  In that movie, however, it was three different women each throwing one coin into the fountain.

Still another version of the tradition is that throwing two coins will ensure a marriage coming soon, and three coins means a divorce.

I opted for one coin, throwing it into the fountain with my right hand over my left shoulder.

Whatever the interpretation, thousands of visitors throw coins every day.  It’s estimated that over €3000 a day is collected from the fountain.  The money is used to support needy projects around Rome.

Trevi Fountain is located at 57 F$, Piazza di Trevi.  If you get lost, or turned around as I did, just look for the signs or ask anyone on the street.  The narrow streets, few of which are straight or set up on a grid, can be confusing.  I just asked for help, and people were very cooperative in getting me pointed in the right direction.

Photo credit: personal collection

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I’m bringing you another photo from my trip to Italy, this one of Saint Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican.

I’m in Tuscany now, and hope to share some additional photos from my week here at a farmhouse.

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Rome has been wonderful so far, and I regret that my time here was so short.  Everywhere you turn there is such a sense of history and wonder. 

My first real impression of the city was coming up from the subway (Colosseo stop) and finding this in front of you.  It literally took my breath away!  Seeing it in books and photos cannot do justice to the sense of awe I felt at seeing this piece of the beginning of civilization.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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I’m traveling with some good friends, and am looking forward to seeing various part of that wonderful country.  Art, culture, music. . . and, let’s face, it the great food and wine doesn’t hurt either.

You’ll still have lots of posts here at Flyaway Cafe, some I’ve done before leaving, some I’ll do on the road, and I’ll also have some guest posts from some of my travel blogging friends.  There will be lots to keep you entertained, so just because I’m gone, doesn’t mean you should be too!

To celebrate my first stop in Italy, here’s a video clip from the movie Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. 

I won’t be driving in Rome, not even on a Vespa, but do hope to take in some of the sights seen in the video.

What are your favorite things to do or see in Rome?  Any must-see attractions?  What’s under and over rated?  Leave some ideas in the comments and help me narrow down all the things that I’d like to do.

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