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In the soft grey light of early morning, we sit quietly on a bamboo mat, wicker baskets of sticky rice beside us, across from a shuttered colonial mansion heavy with bougainvillea.  Birds chatter in the flame trees until a gong sounds, momentarily startling them into silence.

Around a corner, dozens of barefoot monks and novices appear in a swish of saffron, golden bowls hanging from orange shoulder straps.  Beside us, locals show us how to earn merit.  Men adorned with scarves over one shoulder as a mark of respect and kneeling women in traditional shawls put fistfuls of rice into the monks’ bowls as they lift the lids, barely stopping their gracious procession.

As in a dream, just as the rising sun gilds the ceramic-tiled temple roofs, the stream of gold vanishes and the monks return inside. Luang Prabang gets on with the business of the day.

The alms giving ritual, while common in many Asian communities, is particularly vibrant in this ancient capital of Lao culture where the royal family were patrons of Theravada Buddhism. Because of its remoteness in the lush mountains of Northern Laos, Luang Prabang preserved a strong Buddhist culture and traditional fabric of life during the French occupation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today there are no less than 32 active temples or wats, their sweeping roofs sheltering ornate murals, mosaics and intricately carved golden doors, in this pretty town nestled on a narrow peninsula at the convergence of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan.

In 1995, UNESCO granted Luang Prabang world heritage status because of the unique juxtaposition of the French colonial architecture with its temples and traditional Lao wooden buildings. It simply oozes the languid beauty of old Indochine.

We arrive at La Residence Phou Vao, hot and exhausted. Part of the Orient Express portfolio, La Residence is set on a hill above town and is a perfect place to savor the gentle ways of impeccable Laotian service. Its elegant open-sided reception area, graced with Lao silk weavings, artfully arranged pottery, and black and white photographs of Lao villagers, opens onto a lush garden shaded by bamboo and palm trees.  A small bougainvillea and frangipani bedecked stupa floats in a lotus pool.  Our spacious room…with four-poster bed draped in mosquito netting and comfortable sofa…is a study in rich tropical woods and white linens.

We restore our equilibrium by luxuriating Lao style: a cooling dip in the infinity pool before traditional Hmong deep-tissue massages with hot indigo herbal compresses in one of the serene spa pavilions that encircle a second pool. As dusk gently falls we join the head Lao chef for a cooking class on the terrace as other staff transform the pool area into a magical outdoor restaurant, draping dining tables in traditional silks, lighting lanterns in the trees and carefully floating an armada of candles on the water’s surface.

We also spend a couple of days right in the old town in the delightful contemporary-styled Apsara Hotel, with its jewel-bright silks and fuchsia lanterns overlooking the quiet Khan River. We discover the magnificent food market that weaves along roadsides under pagoda eves and airy colonial verandas. Vendors are busy arranging neat piles of basil, eggplants and bananas. Pyramids of red, brown and golden rice sit beside massive mounds of vermicelli and sparkling fresh Mekong river fish and eels. Mothers in traditional Lao sarongs select eggs, paw paws and tomatoes, fermented fish paste, chokos and chiles. There are marvelous swaths of exotic greens, wild boar trotters, kaffir limes, and clusters of ginger and mushrooms. A woman with a shoulder yoke carries baskets of watercress; a child grasps a live chicken; bouquets of gardenias perfume the bright morning sunshine.

After strong Lao coffee and pastries at the Jo Ma Bakery, set up when the Scandinavians helped restore the royal palace, we explore the former palace, which is now the national museum. Built by Vietnamese laborers and funded by the French colonialists it is a curious hodgepodge, with the crest of Erawan or three elephant heads of Laos, the French fleur de lys, Italian marble stairs and an eclectic collection of Art Deco furniture and Buddha statues. A replica of the pure gold, standing little Pra Bang Buddha, after which the town is named, is housed in a pavilion in the grounds. At 6pm, we return to watch elaborately costumed and masked dancers from the Royal Ballet Theatre tell the story of Ramayana.

The most elaborate wats are located between the palace and the fingertip of the peninsula. At the 18th century Wat Mai we see gold stucco bas reliefs of the last incarnation of the historic Buddha while at Wat Xieng Thong we marvel at a rare reclining Buddha and spectacular glass mosaics. Even more transporting, however, is to peek inside temple courtyards where orange robes flutter in the breeze and young novices play under the palm trees.

All over town there are a number of remarkable shops showcasing Lao textiles, woodwork, and silver. Many are identified by the sign ‘Stay Another Day,’ which is an initiative promoting sustainable tourism by connecting travelers with organizations that are helping to conserve local culture and support community projects.

One of the most impressive is Caruso Lao started by Canadian designer Sandra Yuck. Her gallery-quality shop displays exquisite contemporary handcrafted silk furnishings and scarves, silver, and hand-made furniture and wooden bowls that are made by some of the most talented artisans in Laos. At Ock Pop Tok, which means East meets West, Brit Joanna Smith linked up with local partners to help reinvigorate the Lao weaving industry. Today, you not only can buy stunning silk creations and learn about Lao textile traditions but also take dyeing and weaving workshops with local master crafts people under a traditional Lao wooden house beside the Mekong.

Other interesting ‘Stay Another Day’ projects include Big Brother Mouse, where you can help produce and distribute children’s books, and the Lao Red Cross steam baths and massages whose proceeds go to support humanitarian work.

We take a languid cruise in a longboat up the wide khaki swath of the Mekong River. Fisherman throw their nets from boats, children splash in the velvet shallows, women collect river weeds, water buffalo roll in the mud, farmers tend their vegetable plots.  At the sacred Pak Ou Caves, gouged from limestone karsts at the river’s edge, we discover thousands of old and damaged Buddhas retired in peace high above the water, which is tinted orange like the monks’ habits by the sun’s dying rays.

When it gets dark, vendors set up their displays at the mellow night market. We wander undisturbed along the stalls, lit by colored lanterns, choosing delicately patterned silk scarves, rice paper light fixtures pressed with flowers, Hmong embroidery and silver jeweler, and even antique opium scales. Beware, however, of cheap machine-made products from other countries. In a nearby street, food stalls offer inexpensive and delectable Lao specialties such as laap, spicy marinated meat or fish with vegetables.

Indeed, we can’t get enough of the remarkable local food. We enjoy a lunch of watercress soup and local buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil salad at L’ Elephant, savoring also its sumptuous ode to colonial Asia on a rattan chair-decked terrace. At 3 Nagas we devour fiery kaipen, a rustic nori made from pressed and dried riverweeds that are fried with chili, sesame seeds, garlic and buffalo skin paste, and knap, delicate parcels of river fish with local vegetables and herbs wrapped in banana leaves. Afterwards, we stroll contentedly in the soft perfumed air along the lantern-lit riverfront to the Apsara Hotel.

At sunset on our final day, we climb the 328 steps to the temple on the top of Mount Phousi, right in the heart of town. Luang Prabang is spread before us in a tropical patchwork…its slow-motion traffic of bicycles and tuk tuks, its splotches of orange and black as monks with parasols stroll the footpaths, its red-trimmed blue longboats plying the latte-colored Mekong, its pastel-shuttered verandas, its golden temples soaring above mango and frangipani trees.

GETTING THERE: The easiest option is to fly from Bangkok to Luang Prabang on Bangkok Air or Lao Airlines.

VISA: $30 Lao visa can be bought on arrival.

Photo credit: jiazi @flickr (alms); Allie Caulfield @flickr (Buddha)

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Susan Gough Henly has written about travel, food, wine, and culture for twenty years contributing to such publications as The New York Times, The International Herald Tribune, Travel and Leisure, The Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast, The Guardian, The Toronto Star, Luxury Travel, The Australian, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, The Sun Herald, Royal Auto and Outback Magazine. Now based in Australia, she lived for many years in the United States, where she was editor of The Best Places guidebooks in Seattle as well as an editor at Workman Publishing in New York. She also worked for the Bordeaux Wine Trade Council in France.

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During the World’s Fair, this was home to the US Science Pavilion.  Today it is an independent, not for profit science museum, with eight buildings housing hundreds of science exhibits, two IMAX theaters, a large Laser Dome theater, tropical butterfly house, and a planetarium.  In addition to the permanent exhibits, the Pacific Science Center hosts a number of traveling exhibits, most recently “Lucy’s Legacy:  The Hidden Treasures of Ethiopia.”

My favorite of the exhibits, and a welcome respite after a busy day of touring the Seattle Center, is the Tropical Butterfly House.  This building is climate controlled to 80 degrees, with 70% humidity, to nurture the delicate butterflies that call this home.  You’ll need to keep your eyes peeled, and this beautiful creatures may light anywhere – the ground, trees, flowers, or on you.

This is a great place for families, and their are exhibits that will appeal to age groups.  Kids seem to especially enjoy the Dinosaur exhibit, the Insect Village, and the butterflies.

The Pacific Science Center is located on the Seattle Center campus, and the Tropical Butterfly House is in Building #2.  Regular hours are 10 am – 5 pm, Monday – Friday, and until 6 pm on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays.  Summer hours are till 6 pm daily.

Admission is $18 for adults, $16 for seniors (ages 65+), $13 for youth (ages 6-15), and $11 for kids (ages 3-5).  Tickets can be purchased online or onsite.

Photo credit:  Byrmo @flickr

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AAA Travel Views – I found myself nodding in agreement as the author explained that he wasn’t a typical Branson visitor, but he made an exception for Paul Revere & the Raiders.  Since they were a band from my teen years, I can relate.

Intelligent Travel – It’s winter down under, and Vivid Sydney is a cultural extravaganza designed to turn the city into a canvas of light and sound.

The Amsterdam Guide – When’s the best time to visit Amsterdam?  Any time!  And here’s why.

Blisstree – Coq au Vin is a classic French dish that many people fall in love with when they have it in Paris.  Here’s how you can recreate it at home – and it’s not that difficult.

My Melange – A tantalizing review of Tazza d’Oro in Rome reminds me that it’s only 18 days till I leave for Italy.

The New York City Traveler – A tour New York’s famous Zabar’s, a great spot to pick up treats for a picnic.  I haven’t been there for quite some time, but this took me back.

Traveling Mamas – Exploring a city that I’ve not been to — Sedona, Arizona.  Lots of great suggestions on how to enjoy the beautiful outdoors of this area.

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There’s sun!  And coming from Seattle, there’s a lot to like about the sun!

I spent much of today out on the water of Key Biscayne, enjoying a little sun and getting into a little different state of mind.

I spent time aboard one of the boats from Island Queen Cruises, enjoying a nice lunch buffet, cocktails, and great company.  They have sightseeing cruises starting at $25/person, with an internet discount available.   and it’s wonderful way to enjoy time on the water, enjoy a great view of the city, and catch a glimpse of the lifestyles of the rich and famous.

We cruised what’s known as Millionaire’s Row on Star Island, an assortment of fabulous mansions owned by celebrities and other prominent people.  Some of the residents included Rosie O’Donnell, Donald Pliner (of gorgeous shoe and boot fame), Julio Iglesias, Gloria and Emilio Estefan, and Sean Combs.  No star sightings, nor invitations for cocktails or dinner.

Shaquille O’Neal’s has a place there that is up for sale, complete with a 75 foot salt water lap pool.  Price tag on the mansion is reported to be a cool 23 million.

Photo credits:  all from personal collection

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No more toting around your guide book, all you have to do is download via iTunes are from the App Store on your phone or iTouch, and 160,000 discount locations are literally at your fingertips.

So let’s give it a test drive!

I downloaded the App to my iPhone, and figured I’d check out to see what discounts were available in my home area.  Oh dear – first pass shows no discounts close to home.  But – I’m given the option to expand the search area, and what do you know – there’s a drug store down the street that offers a discount to AAA members.  I wanted to expand to a little bit broader area, but once it expanded to find one discount location it didn’t give me the opportunity to expand further.

You can choose a route map to get you to the location, or pull up listed directions.  If you’re looking for a specific type of business (shopping, entertainments, dining, etc.) you can filter narrowly for only your preferences.  If you enter your AAA membership number you can open up additional functions, including a direct click to call for Roadside Assistance.

So far, it looks like a handy little app.  I never remember where I can take an advantage of a AAA discount, and now I’ll probably check a little more often.  I’ll look forward to trying it a bit more in depth when I’m on the road, but saving a few buck here and there all adds up.

Photo credit:  AAA

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Honolulu is rich in military sites and history, and although at time it can be painful to think about, these sites should be on every visitors list of things to see and do.  The islands and the country were shaped by the events of Pearl Harbor, and whether you choose to go on your own or as part of a tour, I think any trip to the islands should include a stop at one of these locations.

Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor:  This site is administered by the National Park System, and in my book is the must-see historical site on the island.  It’s about 45 minutes from Waikiki, and is an easy drive.  It’s also served by several public transportation, and is a stop on many tours.  Like most visitors to the site, I was profoundly touched and moved by the experience.  There is no charge for admission, and the tour includes a brief video followed by a ride to the memorial.  You can read about my experience at the Arizona Memorial in a previous post.

Punchbowl:  Officially the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, this reverent site is the final resting place for veterans of both World Wars as well as Korean and Vietnam.  Courts of the Missing are especially somber, as these marble slabs list the name of military personnel who were lost or buried at sea or who were missing in action.  There is no charge for admission, and the site is reachable by car or on one of many tours.  You can read about why I prefer to experience Punchbowl in solitude in a previous post.

Pacific Aviation Museum:  This museum chronicle the history of the attack on Pearl Harbor with original film and photos, and a tour of Hangars 37 and 49.  Aviation buffs will love the collection of US and Japanese aircraft.  Tickets for the museum require jumping through a bunch of hoops as this is an active military base.  You can read what I thought about the Pacific Aviation Museum in a previous post.

Battleship Missouri Monument:  The “Mighty Mo” has a history filled with lots of stories starting with World War II, and continuing through right up to Operation Desert Storm.  The site now offers multi-media tours, combining footage and narration from some of the men who served onboard this ship, in an attempt to portray a realistic feel for what life onboard was really like.  This is the only one of the sites that I’ve not yet visited, and it’s on my list for the next trip. 

Photo credit:  wikimedia

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Off we went to on the Metro, opting to get off near the US Capitol Building, with the plan to walk along the National Mall ending up at the opposite end and the Washington Monument.  We didn’t figure that we’d have quite enough time (or energy) to make it over to the Tidal Basin, but still, it was a solid plan.

The Capitol Building was beautiful.  I’ve always been impressed with its rotunda and dome.  Its stateliness inspires me to believe that despite the many political differences that we might have, the Capitol building remains a symbol of the very best that democracy offers us.

The Capitol grounds cover a large expanse, and there were lots of cherry trees in varying stages of blossoming.  After walking around the grounds we headed down the path on the east side of the mall, stopping to look at anything that captured our attention.  We’d occasionally veer off the beaten path, and, unfortunately, that’s where the cherry blossom viewing was cut short.

Looking up and around, I failed to notice an uneven piece of sidewalk.  I hit it pretty hard, causing me to trip and fall forward even harder.  I was pretty scruffed up, with wounds on my arms, hands and leg – but perhaps even more wounded was my pride.  How embarrassing!

Thus ended my viewing and photo session of the cherry blossoms in our nation’s capital.  But at least I got these photos!

I recommend you check out The DC Traveler for more information about viewing the cherry blossoms in DC.  But there’s lot of other cherry blossoms, too:  in the Atlanta area, all over the South, and even up in Vancouver, British Columbia.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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Whether our photos are professional quality, or merely serve as a memory of a wonderful adventure, photos have become an increasingly important part of travel.  And in the era of so many digital options, from cameras to online storage to editing software and more, there’s no reason for it to be a complicated process. (I’ve been trying out some new products so look for some reviews coming up soon!)

My photo today is a wonderful memory of a trip to the Pompeii ruins.  Located near Naples, Italy, Pompeii was destroyed during a two day eruption of Mount Vesuvius back in 79 AD.  The city was buried under ash and pumice, and for nearly 1700 years was presumed lost until its accidental re-discovery in the mid-1700’s.   The subsequent excavation of the site has been a glimpse at what life was like during the height of the Roman Empire.

Today, Pompeii is a popular tourist attraction, and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Millions of visitors explore the site each year, along with its sister city of Herculaneum.

I spent a full day wandering the ruins.  It was interesting getting a feel for how the city was laid out before the eruption, and noting how some building were totally decimated while others had major walls and other components left standing.  Some of the artwork that survived was amazing!  During the spring and summer months, the ruins are open from 8:30 am – 7:30 pm, and during the fall and winter till 5 pm.  A one day ticket is

To get to Pompeii, take the Circumvesuviana train to the Pompei stop.  The entrance to the ruins is just a short walk from the station.  One day admission is €11,00, and a 3-day admission covering 5 sites (Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis, Stabiae, and Boscoreale) is €20,00.  EU visitors under 18 or over 65, are FREE.  EU visitors ages 18-24 and teachers are half price.

Here are my suggestions on how to enjoy a visit to the ruins:

Plan to spend a full day.  There’s lots to see, and you will want time to explore what interests you.

• Wear comfortable flat walking shoes as you’ll be on your feet all day, and the site is hilly with uneven paths.  It may not have been polite, but I laughed at the people I saw trying to navigate the site in heels.
• Leave the strollers at home.  I saw people trying to push strollers up and down, but honestly, I’m not sure this is the best attraction for rolling along with the little ones.
• Opt for the audio guide.  While I didn’t follow along and listen to the entire guide, there are lots of sites numbered that match up with the guide.  I was interested in enough things to make it well worth the small additional charge.
• Bring water for certain, maybe a snack. You’ll want something to drink as you’re walking around.  You can buy food and beverage onsite, but bringing your own is both more convenient and cheaper (although onsite prices weren’t horrible).
• Don’t make big plans for the evening after visiting.  After a full day of wandering in the heat (it was March and quite warm), I was exhausted.  All I wanted was an easy evening in rather than a night on the town.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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Consider these Top 10 FREE things to do in Europe this summer (as listed by the European Travel Commission):

1. Austria:  Innsbruck is offering a free hiking bus program for all guests living in Innsbruck or staying at one of the holiday villages (with a Club Innsbruck Card).  May 30th – October 26th.
2. Belgium:  What else, but free beer?!  The Haacht Brewery offers free tours and tasting (one low fermentation and one high).  Yummmm, Belgian beer!
3. England:  London has free admission to the British Museum (additional charge for some special traveling exhibits) and the National Gallery.  A chance to see great art and culture.  (Personal note:  Lots of other UK museums are also free including the National Portrait Gallery, Victoria & Albert Museum, and the National Army Museum.)
4. Estonia:  Tour the 13th century castle in Narva, Estonia.  The grounds feature concerts and open air shows all summer long.
5. France:  The Fete de la Musique offers free music events during the summer.  Lots of choices in Paris, and throughout the country.
6. Germany:  Several museums on Berlin’s Museum Island offer free entry on Thursday after 2 pm, including the Pergamon,the Old Museum, Old National Gallery,Bode Museum,and the New Museum.  Museum Island is a UNESO World Heritage Site.
7. Hungary:  Energy and daring in the sky are in evidence during the Red Bull Air Race in Budapest.  High speed flying and aerobatics over the Danube, as well a flying beneath the Chain Bridge, keep viewers holding their breath.  August 19-20th.
8. Ireland:  The Ring of Kerry (in County Kerry) is a mystical Celtic tourist trail starting in Killarney.  Follow it for some of the best scenery in the country, and a visit to many historical attractions.
9. Norway:  Visiting Oslo’s National Museum of Art, home to Edvard Munch’s “The Scream,” won’t cost you a krone.
10. Switzerland:  Zurich hosts one of the largest techno-parties in the world, with its August Street Parade.  Originally begun as a political demonstration for love, freedom and tolerance, it’s become a giant parade and party.  August 8th.

I know there are a lot of other great FREE things to do in Europe!  So please list your favorites in the comments!

Photo credit: SXC

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Built between AD 72-80, the Coliseum was originally called the Flavian Amphitheater and was the center of the city of Rome.  It was the first and the largest (it covers about six acres) permanent amphitheater built in the Roman Empire.

The exterior of the building consisted of four floors – three tiers of arches and an attic. On top of the attic were a series of brackets and sockets that allowed a shade to be pulled over the arena for sun protection, and a canopy that could be pulled over to protect guests from the rain.  It was a fairly complex system that may have served as the forerunner to the many stadium and arenas today that have a retractable roof.

Anyone who has seen Russell Crowe in the movie Gladiator, has a pretty good idea of how the Coliseum operated.

80 doorways led into the interior arena area, with tiers of marble benches for spectators.  Seating was arranged by rank, with the emperor and noblemen at the front, and working men and women at the rear.  It was an efficient seating plan that allowed for the smooth arrival and departure of nearly 50,000 spectators.

Originally, the arena floor was wooden with sand over it.  There were various trapdoors that opened up letting lions and other ferocious beast enter the arena.  (You can still see the outline of many of those trapdoors today.)  There was also a fairly advanced underground aqueduct system that allowed the floor to be flooded for water battles.  This is where the gladiator battles and other public spectacles took place – the ultimate battle between the lions and Christians.  Many of both died in the games.

So what happened after the gladiators?  Keep reading to find out more!

In the middle ages, the Coliseum was used as a fortress and a quarry, but in 1749 Pope Benedict XIV declared it a sacred site where early Christians had been martyred.  Stations of the Cross were installed and it became a holy structure, although one that was allowed to fall into disrepair.

During the 19th century conservation of the Coliseum began, and its ties to the Catholic Church renewed.  In recent years, it has become a symbol of the international campaign against the death penalty, and the night illumination changes from white to gold whenever a death sentences is commuted, the prisoner released, or if a jurisdiction abolishes the death penalty. In December 2007 it was lit in gold when New Jersey abolished the death penalty.

Although the interior of the Coliseum is in ruins, you can still see several of the marble benches from early days.  It is used for an occasional event (a few hundred spectators can be accommodated in temporary seating), and larger events like concerts have been held outside the arena on the grounds.  Paul McCartney and Elton John both had concerts on the amphitheater grounds.  Each year on Good Friday, the Pope leads a torch lit procession for the Stations of the Cross.

The exterior grounds of the Coliseum can be wandered at no charge.  Look out for the young men dressed up like gladiators who’ll stand with you for a photo.  There’s a fee involved.   You can walked around the entire perimeter, enjoy the grounds,  marvel at the architecture, and soak in the feel of history.

Admission is charged to get inside, although EU citizens, students, and seniors have a reduced rate.  Timed tickets are available in advance or you can buy them at the Palatine.  The lines are shorter there than at the Coliseum itself, and the ticket covers admission to both sites.  An audio tour is available for an additional charge.

Of all the things that I saw in Rome, and there were lots of impressive things, the Coliseum was the highlight.  It was my first glimpse of the city.  I came up from the train station and stood for a minute clearing my head and getting my bearings.  I looked up at the Coliseum directly in front of me.  I stood there, across the street from history, and it simply took my breath away.

Photo credits:  all from personal collection

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