—

In the soft grey light of early morning, we sit quietly on a bamboo mat, wicker baskets of sticky rice beside us, across from a shuttered colonial mansion heavy with bougainvillea.  Birds chatter in the flame trees until a gong sounds, momentarily startling them into silence.

Around a corner, dozens of barefoot monks and novices appear in a swish of saffron, golden bowls hanging from orange shoulder straps.  Beside us, locals show us how to earn merit.  Men adorned with scarves over one shoulder as a mark of respect and kneeling women in traditional shawls put fistfuls of rice into the monks’ bowls as they lift the lids, barely stopping their gracious procession.

As in a dream, just as the rising sun gilds the ceramic-tiled temple roofs, the stream of gold vanishes and the monks return inside. Luang Prabang gets on with the business of the day.

The alms giving ritual, while common in many Asian communities, is particularly vibrant in this ancient capital of Lao culture where the royal family were patrons of Theravada Buddhism. Because of its remoteness in the lush mountains of Northern Laos, Luang Prabang preserved a strong Buddhist culture and traditional fabric of life during the French occupation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today there are no less than 32 active temples or wats, their sweeping roofs sheltering ornate murals, mosaics and intricately carved golden doors, in this pretty town nestled on a narrow peninsula at the convergence of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan.

In 1995, UNESCO granted Luang Prabang world heritage status because of the unique juxtaposition of the French colonial architecture with its temples and traditional Lao wooden buildings. It simply oozes the languid beauty of old Indochine.

We arrive at La Residence Phou Vao, hot and exhausted. Part of the Orient Express portfolio, La Residence is set on a hill above town and is a perfect place to savor the gentle ways of impeccable Laotian service. Its elegant open-sided reception area, graced with Lao silk weavings, artfully arranged pottery, and black and white photographs of Lao villagers, opens onto a lush garden shaded by bamboo and palm trees.  A small bougainvillea and frangipani bedecked stupa floats in a lotus pool.  Our spacious room…with four-poster bed draped in mosquito netting and comfortable sofa…is a study in rich tropical woods and white linens.

We restore our equilibrium by luxuriating Lao style: a cooling dip in the infinity pool before traditional Hmong deep-tissue massages with hot indigo herbal compresses in one of the serene spa pavilions that encircle a second pool. As dusk gently falls we join the head Lao chef for a cooking class on the terrace as other staff transform the pool area into a magical outdoor restaurant, draping dining tables in traditional silks, lighting lanterns in the trees and carefully floating an armada of candles on the water’s surface.

We also spend a couple of days right in the old town in the delightful contemporary-styled Apsara Hotel, with its jewel-bright silks and fuchsia lanterns overlooking the quiet Khan River. We discover the magnificent food market that weaves along roadsides under pagoda eves and airy colonial verandas. Vendors are busy arranging neat piles of basil, eggplants and bananas. Pyramids of red, brown and golden rice sit beside massive mounds of vermicelli and sparkling fresh Mekong river fish and eels. Mothers in traditional Lao sarongs select eggs, paw paws and tomatoes, fermented fish paste, chokos and chiles. There are marvelous swaths of exotic greens, wild boar trotters, kaffir limes, and clusters of ginger and mushrooms. A woman with a shoulder yoke carries baskets of watercress; a child grasps a live chicken; bouquets of gardenias perfume the bright morning sunshine.

After strong Lao coffee and pastries at the Jo Ma Bakery, set up when the Scandinavians helped restore the royal palace, we explore the former palace, which is now the national museum. Built by Vietnamese laborers and funded by the French colonialists it is a curious hodgepodge, with the crest of Erawan or three elephant heads of Laos, the French fleur de lys, Italian marble stairs and an eclectic collection of Art Deco furniture and Buddha statues. A replica of the pure gold, standing little Pra Bang Buddha, after which the town is named, is housed in a pavilion in the grounds. At 6pm, we return to watch elaborately costumed and masked dancers from the Royal Ballet Theatre tell the story of Ramayana.

The most elaborate wats are located between the palace and the fingertip of the peninsula. At the 18th century Wat Mai we see gold stucco bas reliefs of the last incarnation of the historic Buddha while at Wat Xieng Thong we marvel at a rare reclining Buddha and spectacular glass mosaics. Even more transporting, however, is to peek inside temple courtyards where orange robes flutter in the breeze and young novices play under the palm trees.

All over town there are a number of remarkable shops showcasing Lao textiles, woodwork, and silver. Many are identified by the sign ‘Stay Another Day,’ which is an initiative promoting sustainable tourism by connecting travelers with organizations that are helping to conserve local culture and support community projects.

One of the most impressive is Caruso Lao started by Canadian designer Sandra Yuck. Her gallery-quality shop displays exquisite contemporary handcrafted silk furnishings and scarves, silver, and hand-made furniture and wooden bowls that are made by some of the most talented artisans in Laos. At Ock Pop Tok, which means East meets West, Brit Joanna Smith linked up with local partners to help reinvigorate the Lao weaving industry. Today, you not only can buy stunning silk creations and learn about Lao textile traditions but also take dyeing and weaving workshops with local master crafts people under a traditional Lao wooden house beside the Mekong.

Other interesting ‘Stay Another Day’ projects include Big Brother Mouse, where you can help produce and distribute children’s books, and the Lao Red Cross steam baths and massages whose proceeds go to support humanitarian work.

We take a languid cruise in a longboat up the wide khaki swath of the Mekong River. Fisherman throw their nets from boats, children splash in the velvet shallows, women collect river weeds, water buffalo roll in the mud, farmers tend their vegetable plots.  At the sacred Pak Ou Caves, gouged from limestone karsts at the river’s edge, we discover thousands of old and damaged Buddhas retired in peace high above the water, which is tinted orange like the monks’ habits by the sun’s dying rays.

When it gets dark, vendors set up their displays at the mellow night market. We wander undisturbed along the stalls, lit by colored lanterns, choosing delicately patterned silk scarves, rice paper light fixtures pressed with flowers, Hmong embroidery and silver jeweler, and even antique opium scales. Beware, however, of cheap machine-made products from other countries. In a nearby street, food stalls offer inexpensive and delectable Lao specialties such as laap, spicy marinated meat or fish with vegetables.

Indeed, we can’t get enough of the remarkable local food. We enjoy a lunch of watercress soup and local buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil salad at L’ Elephant, savoring also its sumptuous ode to colonial Asia on a rattan chair-decked terrace. At 3 Nagas we devour fiery kaipen, a rustic nori made from pressed and dried riverweeds that are fried with chili, sesame seeds, garlic and buffalo skin paste, and knap, delicate parcels of river fish with local vegetables and herbs wrapped in banana leaves. Afterwards, we stroll contentedly in the soft perfumed air along the lantern-lit riverfront to the Apsara Hotel.

At sunset on our final day, we climb the 328 steps to the temple on the top of Mount Phousi, right in the heart of town. Luang Prabang is spread before us in a tropical patchwork…its slow-motion traffic of bicycles and tuk tuks, its splotches of orange and black as monks with parasols stroll the footpaths, its red-trimmed blue longboats plying the latte-colored Mekong, its pastel-shuttered verandas, its golden temples soaring above mango and frangipani trees.

GETTING THERE: The easiest option is to fly from Bangkok to Luang Prabang on Bangkok Air or Lao Airlines.

VISA: $30 Lao visa can be bought on arrival.

Photo credit: jiazi @flickr (alms); Allie Caulfield @flickr (Buddha)

—

Susan Gough Henly has written about travel, food, wine, and culture for twenty years contributing to such publications as The New York Times, The International Herald Tribune, Travel and Leisure, The Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast, The Guardian, The Toronto Star, Luxury Travel, The Australian, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, The Sun Herald, Royal Auto and Outback Magazine. Now based in Australia, she lived for many years in the United States, where she was editor of The Best Places guidebooks in Seattle as well as an editor at Workman Publishing in New York. She also worked for the Bordeaux Wine Trade Council in France.

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

While smoking at the restaurants is a thing of the past, enjoying their great steaks is not.  With two locations, downtown at  2165 West Burnside and Glendoveer at 14021 NE Glisan, RingSide is not far from wherever you are in the Portland area.

Do you have a matchbook that you’ve found stuck away in a drawer?  I’d love to feature it in a future Matchbook Monday.  Take a photo and email it to me, and be sure to include any memories that you might have.

Photo credit:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Here’s some posts you won’t want to miss:

The New York City Traveler combines two of my favorite food groups, bacon and beer, in his post about a limited production beer at the Brooklyn Brewery.  Another reason to make the trek across the bridge!

Nerds Eye View takes us along her road trip – in a 32 foot RV.  I’m not a camper, but maybe RV-ing it would be a little different.  What do you think?  Is a road trip in your future?

MSNBC gives us some tips on how to spot a hotel in bankruptcy.  Ignore these warning signs at your peril.

Seattle PI Blog has an interview with Hollywood screenwriter Mike Thompson, and he talks about his new movie, Love Happens starring Jennifer Aniston and Aaron Eckhart.  Parts of the movie were set in and around Seattle.

Fox Nomad suggests that we ask for a corporate discount, even if we don’t work for that business.  Or ask for a conference rate, even though we may not be attending the conference.  A good topic at the intersection of budget and ethics.

A Traveler’s Library reviews the recent Travel Insight 100 poll about using Twitter.  Members of Travel Insight 100 are travel writers, travel industry professionals, advisors and analysts, and travel bloggers.  (Full disclosure:  I’m a member of the panel.)

A Single View has a beautiful photo of the Hotel Cala di Volpe on the Costa Smeralda in Sardinia, Italy.  Beautiful!  And makes me long for my return trip to Italy.

Traveling the Green Way lists some green activities in the Portland area.  Some great stuff happening just down the freeway a-piece.

Photo credit: SXC

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Book accommodations that have a kitchen.  Whether it’s staying at a condo, an extended-stay property, or maybe just a room with a coffee maker and refrigerator, these will all presents ways to help you save on food expenses.  With a full kitchen you can stock up on supplies so that you’re not dining out for every meal, while still keeping in mind that no one should have to cook every meal of every day – that’s not much of a vacation for the cook.  Even if you don’t have a full kitchen, stocking up on some cereal, milk, juice, coffee, and other snacks can help pare down this expense by many dollars each day.

Fill up at an all-you-can-eat buffet

Buy food at the local farmers’ market.  Many cities have these, and shopping there will give you a chance to mingle with the locals in addition to getting some fresh food.  Pick up bread and sandwich fixings for the room and pack yourself a picnic.  Try a local delicacy in a small quantity instead of spending big bucks to try it in a restaurant.  If there’s no farmers’ market, find a local supermarket.  Picking up some snacks to throw in your purse or a backpack will keep you from overspending while you’re sightseeing.

If you can’t get accommodations with a kitchen, look for a hotel that offers free breakfasts and/or afternoon or evening happy hours.  Eliminating breakfast can be a big savings, especially if you’re traveling with a family.  Even if it’s not a full cook-to-order meal, grabbing cereal, fruit, juice and coffee will give you some nourishment to face a full day of vacation activities.  Many hotels are offering complimentary “manager receptions” with reduced or free alcoholic beverages and light appetizers.  If you’ve got plans for the evening, this can be a way to get something light to eat, along with a cheap cocktail, before heading out.

Get take out or delivery service.  Picking up a to-go meal, or ordering in pizza, will get you fed without tempting you to overspend with all the other items on the menu.  You can drink the beverages you have chilling in the refrigerator, and save even more.  Ask for suggestions as the front desk, as most will be able to help give you some recommendations.

Consider the early bird specials.  Many a Seinfeld joke has been made on this topic, but restaurants offer discounts to get people in before (and sometimes after) the dinner rush.  Sometimes it will be a special (and often limited) menu, sometimes a 2 for 1, or maybe just a coupon for dollars off, but it generally represents a good value.  It’s not just for seniors either!  If you’ve had a hectic day, don’t pass up the chance to eat early and have a relaxing evening in your room.  And save money, too!

Make lunch your main meal.  Prices are usually cheaper at lunch, and you can eat somewhere fab for less.
Restaurant Happy Hours can save money on drinks and food.  Happy Hour discounts very between discounts for food, drinks, or both, so you may have to do some scouting around to find the best money saving deals.

Look for kids and senior meals.  Many restaurants offer special deals to these two important groups of guests, and some restaurants offer a kids eat free program.  Don’t be afraid to ask for a senior or kids specials if you don’t see it listed on the menu.  A restaurant may not offer a special menu, but may offer a half portion.  Ask.

Consider an all-you-can-eat buffet.  I’m not a fan of these type of buffets, as I rarely the food is very tasty.  Still, if your short on funds and long on hunger, squeezing this into the day may give you the budget relief needed to eat well another day.  And they’re usually great for families.  Consider making it a lunch buffet and you’ll usually save even more.

Look for a local restaurant rather than a chain.  These can be hard to find sometimes, so you may need to ask at the front desk or other people you meet.  Try asking where they go to eat, rather than for a recommendation.  A little hole-in-the wall place that locals go to will usually be budget friendly.

Use coupons.  From AAA to your hotel to those found in a newspaper or magazine, there are lots of coupons available.  Use common sense though.  It’s not a deal if you’re getting something that you don’t like or if you’re spending more than you normally would to use the benefit.

Have appetizers as an entree or share a meal.  You’ll need to be careful here as some restaurants have a minimum person order or will charge a plate fee to split a meal.  A salad and appetizer, though, can be enough if you’re not super hungry, and is a great way to check out a restaurant that you’re dying to try – and without breaking the bank.

All of these tips won’t work all of the time, and some may just not be your cup of tea.  So pick and choose the ones you can use, and let me know of any others that work for you.

Photo credit:   SXC

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Velvet Escape tackles the weighty topic of. . . refrigerator magnet.  I love them!  And now, I think I’ll start a collection of my own.

The Paris Traveler shares a whiff of the Paris exotic with information about how to get your very own custom French fragrance.  What a delightful, and practical memory of a great vacation.

Refreshing Italian gelato

The Trends explain about a sort of reverse pick-pocketing going on in London.  Instead of taking money out of your pocket, they’re putting it in.

Gail at Large has a great photo taken while going through the tunnel to Boston’s Logan airport.

The Venice Guide writes about a topic near and dear to my heart, Italian gelato.  While visiting Italy, it was not uncommon for me to eat it two or three times a day.  Now that I’m back at home, this post reminded me of just what I’m missing, and the photo doesn’t come close to doing it justice.

Vintage Seattle has photos from the 1962 Seattle’s World Fair.  It’s a little trip down memory lane.

Boston.com reports on a new hotel marketing trend – marketing to family travelers with upscale features and amenities for the kids.  Will it work for you?

The DC Traveler gives us a history lesson of the founding and development of the Smithsonian Institute.  It’s a whole lot more than just the castle.

My Marrakesh gives us a little fashion show Moroccan style.  You’ll always find great photos and style at this blog.

Las Vegas Sun reports on how Las Vegas luxury resorts are offering promotional bargains to fill the rooms, and wondering if it’s a good thing. Why aren’t these rates available when I need a room there?

The Buenos Aires Guide makes we want to visit the city even more.  See if this post convinces you as well.

Consumer Traveler offers suggestions for healthy and stress free travel.  Maybe some of these will work for you.

Photo credit: fortes @flickr

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Twin Oaks Restaurant in Cranston, Rhode Island

Like me, Jeff enjoys using matchbooks as a bit of a souvenir of a special place and occasion.  He’s provides this matchbook from the Twin Oaks Restaurant in Cranston, Rhode Island.  Back in the 70’s this was considered one of the top restaurants in the state, and Jeff said that he always looked forward to having lunch or dinner at the restaurant.

The restaurant, which got its starts as a Speakeasy during the days of Prohibition, is located at 100 Sabra Street in Cranston, is still around, and over the years has won a number of awards.  It serves up quality family food six days a week (closed Monday), and is open for lunch and dinner.

Thanks, Jeff, for sharing your memory and matchbook with us!

Photo credit:  Jeff Williams, Matchbook Traveler

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

The Fountains at Bellagio, Las Vegas

With so many families wishing to vacation close to home this year, and often trying to find a destination that keeps both adults and kids satisfied, Las Vegas seems to be cropping up as destination that’s starting to appeal to families once again.

Las Vegas offers bargains galore, on food and accommodations, has shows suitable for all ages, and hotels that sport some pretty great pool areas.    Although Las Vegas will never shed it’s well-deserved party reputation, and I enjoy the city for a weekend getaway, there are lots of families and adults who want to take advantage of the many amenities the city has to offer, while bypassing the more  risque activities.

That’s my mission for the next few days.  To spot out what’s G-Rated in Sin City.

I already have a pretty decent list to choose from, along with a couple of shows, but if you have some favorite all age-appropriate Las Vegas spots, please leave me a comment with your suggestions.

Photo credit:  The Fountains of Bellagio courtesy of MGM Mirage

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

The new Drinks Matcher, from Nat Decants, is a combination wine sommelier and bartender, all in the convenience of your smart phone.  You can quickly choose a wine whether you’re sitting at a restaurant, lounging poolside, or shopping at the supermarket or liquor store.  Since the app doesn’t require an internet connection, you can even use it when you’re dining on the patio and some remote tropical location.

Natalie says, “As a wine-loving geek, I love finding ways for new technology to help us savour all of life’s pleasures, wherever we are.”

To search for the perfect drink-food combination, start with either a dish or a drink.  From there, select bubbly, white, red, rose, or dessert, or opt for beer, spirits, cocktails, liquor, coffee or tea.  True connoisseurs can drill down their selection even further by focusing on a particular grape, more specific food information, or the primary flavor of spices used in a dish.

Choose to impress your friends, if you must, but what I like about the app is that it gets you out of a rut and forces you to try something new.  That’s worth the $2.99 charge in my book.

The Drinks Matcher app can be downloaded from your smart phone’s online store, or download it from Nat Decants.

Photo credit: Nat Decants

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

—

I keep hearing it over again  – relaxation is what your body needs. Nourishment, renewal and balance are so important, yet I often put them on the end of my list of things to do. It’s almost like a need to force myself to do those things. When it’s time to focus on some self-love, it’s time for me to book a weekend (or week) at the Canyon Ranch.

Canyon Ranch originated in Tucson, Arizona in 1979 and has since expanded to Massachusetts (in 1989) and Miami Beach (in 2008). These properties have set the standards for health spas worldwide. If you are looking just for a hotel, you’ve come to the wrong place as your stay at any of the properties will be an all-encompassing experience: the spa, daily fitness activities, outdoor pool, full time physician and wellness specialists, gathering spaces and in-house restaurants will all add to your experience. I’d say they are the focal point here with the hotel suites more of a side note.

The evening I arrived at Canyon Ranch was a night of chaos in Miami. The roof of the Fontainebleau had collapsed just down the street so I couldn’t have asked for a better night to have escaped from it all. From the moment you enter the door, relaxation is in order. There’s no waiting in line at the check-in counter, but rather you sit down to make sure everything is in order. You soon receive your itinerary for your stay, a list of classes offered during your time there (and there are hundreds), a glass of refreshing Hibiscus tea and go over any dietary restrictions you might have. They are here to nourish your whole body and nothing is left out.

It’s time to hand over anything that reminds you of work (cell phones are banned in most area) as relaxation is a must.

The Spa

The center of activity should lie in the spa at Canyon Ranch. This 70,000 square-foot oasis combines all you need for a spa, wellness and fitness. What better location can you ask for than being situated on the Atlantic Ocean! Be sure to devote time each day to spend in the Aquavana. This thermal facility brings hot and cold sensations to you in a multi-sensory experience – an herbal sauna, hydro spa, Finnish sauna, crystal steam room, ice igloo, experiential shower-cabins (Atlantic Storm turned Polar Mist turned Caribbean Monsoon), your senses will be awakened. There are 54 treatment rooms on site, a men and women’s locker room and body treatments that are plentiful. Indulge in a signature treatment or head next door to the salon where even the manicures and pedicures use only vegan products.

The Fitness Center

Filled with state-of-the-art cardio, weight and strength-training equipment you will work with your personal trainer to reach your goals. There’s absolutely no cheating here as you are given a key that documents the number of reps, the amount of weight lifted and keeps a log of your workout history. All guests receive access to a list of complimentary classes ranging from a walk on the beach to Buff Ballet Booty to Kinesis Basics.

The Suites

All rooms are luxury suites here at this property equipped with a spacious living area (720 square feet to 1,200 square feet), large flat panel entertainment systems, fully equipped kitchens, high-speed internet access, plush robes and slippers, 400-thread count lines and a daily newspaper. And, don’t forget the gorgeous oceanfront views.

Restaurants

As someone who covers restaurants often, the dining experience is the center of my hotel experience and I believe that the Canyon Ranch Grill lived up to my expectations. It fits into the mode of healthful eating, provides all the nutritional information of the food on the menu, offers classes on how to create a healthy diet and bring it with you and still delivers a flavorful cuisine that all led to a memorable dining experience.  The stuffed spicy poblano peppers with goat cheese and shrimp were extraordinary, but you can find my entire review here.  It’s important to note that the  Miami location is the only property that serves alcohol, and while they do, everything is organic and biodynamic. In addition to the main restaurant, they do have EeZz’s Juice Bar (a smoothie bar), The Cabana (their poolside dining experience) and the Carillion Cafe where tea, wine and cheese are served.

What I truly loved about the Canyon Ranch was that everyone that I met on-site was passionate about this property. From the concierge to the waitstaff to the receptionist at the salon, I could tell everyone loved what they did at the Canyon Ranch and it was evident in the aura I felt walking around the resort. This is a rare find in properties in Miami, but one that I could easily get used to.

Next time I feel the overload of my everyday workload and need to break away, this is the perfect escape.

The Canyon Ranch is located at 6801 Collins Avenue in Miami Beach. For reservations, call 305-514-7474.

Today’s guest post comes to us today from Katherine Lynch, travel writer at The South Florida Traveler for PlanetEye. When she’s not exploring new destinations, you will find Katherine exploring South Florida Restaurants at Dine Magazine , enjoying a glass of wine or planning wine and food events in South Florida.

Photo credits:  courtesy of Canyon Ranch Miami Beach

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Needing a bit of a stretch break, along with wanting some coffee and a bit of nourishment for the road, our band of travelers stopped at the “ristop” just off the autostrada (A-1) south of Milan.

I’m not a McDonald’s kind of gal.  No apologies – it’s just not my fast food preference.

Fortunately for me, right next to the burger and fries counter was a wonderful selection of pastries, paninis (sandwich), and coffee.  Our traveling snack turned out to be a hit, not a miss.

Photo credit:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe