—

In the soft grey light of early morning, we sit quietly on a bamboo mat, wicker baskets of sticky rice beside us, across from a shuttered colonial mansion heavy with bougainvillea.  Birds chatter in the flame trees until a gong sounds, momentarily startling them into silence.

Around a corner, dozens of barefoot monks and novices appear in a swish of saffron, golden bowls hanging from orange shoulder straps.  Beside us, locals show us how to earn merit.  Men adorned with scarves over one shoulder as a mark of respect and kneeling women in traditional shawls put fistfuls of rice into the monks’ bowls as they lift the lids, barely stopping their gracious procession.

As in a dream, just as the rising sun gilds the ceramic-tiled temple roofs, the stream of gold vanishes and the monks return inside. Luang Prabang gets on with the business of the day.

The alms giving ritual, while common in many Asian communities, is particularly vibrant in this ancient capital of Lao culture where the royal family were patrons of Theravada Buddhism. Because of its remoteness in the lush mountains of Northern Laos, Luang Prabang preserved a strong Buddhist culture and traditional fabric of life during the French occupation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today there are no less than 32 active temples or wats, their sweeping roofs sheltering ornate murals, mosaics and intricately carved golden doors, in this pretty town nestled on a narrow peninsula at the convergence of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan.

In 1995, UNESCO granted Luang Prabang world heritage status because of the unique juxtaposition of the French colonial architecture with its temples and traditional Lao wooden buildings. It simply oozes the languid beauty of old Indochine.

We arrive at La Residence Phou Vao, hot and exhausted. Part of the Orient Express portfolio, La Residence is set on a hill above town and is a perfect place to savor the gentle ways of impeccable Laotian service. Its elegant open-sided reception area, graced with Lao silk weavings, artfully arranged pottery, and black and white photographs of Lao villagers, opens onto a lush garden shaded by bamboo and palm trees.  A small bougainvillea and frangipani bedecked stupa floats in a lotus pool.  Our spacious room…with four-poster bed draped in mosquito netting and comfortable sofa…is a study in rich tropical woods and white linens.

We restore our equilibrium by luxuriating Lao style: a cooling dip in the infinity pool before traditional Hmong deep-tissue massages with hot indigo herbal compresses in one of the serene spa pavilions that encircle a second pool. As dusk gently falls we join the head Lao chef for a cooking class on the terrace as other staff transform the pool area into a magical outdoor restaurant, draping dining tables in traditional silks, lighting lanterns in the trees and carefully floating an armada of candles on the water’s surface.

We also spend a couple of days right in the old town in the delightful contemporary-styled Apsara Hotel, with its jewel-bright silks and fuchsia lanterns overlooking the quiet Khan River. We discover the magnificent food market that weaves along roadsides under pagoda eves and airy colonial verandas. Vendors are busy arranging neat piles of basil, eggplants and bananas. Pyramids of red, brown and golden rice sit beside massive mounds of vermicelli and sparkling fresh Mekong river fish and eels. Mothers in traditional Lao sarongs select eggs, paw paws and tomatoes, fermented fish paste, chokos and chiles. There are marvelous swaths of exotic greens, wild boar trotters, kaffir limes, and clusters of ginger and mushrooms. A woman with a shoulder yoke carries baskets of watercress; a child grasps a live chicken; bouquets of gardenias perfume the bright morning sunshine.

After strong Lao coffee and pastries at the Jo Ma Bakery, set up when the Scandinavians helped restore the royal palace, we explore the former palace, which is now the national museum. Built by Vietnamese laborers and funded by the French colonialists it is a curious hodgepodge, with the crest of Erawan or three elephant heads of Laos, the French fleur de lys, Italian marble stairs and an eclectic collection of Art Deco furniture and Buddha statues. A replica of the pure gold, standing little Pra Bang Buddha, after which the town is named, is housed in a pavilion in the grounds. At 6pm, we return to watch elaborately costumed and masked dancers from the Royal Ballet Theatre tell the story of Ramayana.

The most elaborate wats are located between the palace and the fingertip of the peninsula. At the 18th century Wat Mai we see gold stucco bas reliefs of the last incarnation of the historic Buddha while at Wat Xieng Thong we marvel at a rare reclining Buddha and spectacular glass mosaics. Even more transporting, however, is to peek inside temple courtyards where orange robes flutter in the breeze and young novices play under the palm trees.

All over town there are a number of remarkable shops showcasing Lao textiles, woodwork, and silver. Many are identified by the sign ‘Stay Another Day,’ which is an initiative promoting sustainable tourism by connecting travelers with organizations that are helping to conserve local culture and support community projects.

One of the most impressive is Caruso Lao started by Canadian designer Sandra Yuck. Her gallery-quality shop displays exquisite contemporary handcrafted silk furnishings and scarves, silver, and hand-made furniture and wooden bowls that are made by some of the most talented artisans in Laos. At Ock Pop Tok, which means East meets West, Brit Joanna Smith linked up with local partners to help reinvigorate the Lao weaving industry. Today, you not only can buy stunning silk creations and learn about Lao textile traditions but also take dyeing and weaving workshops with local master crafts people under a traditional Lao wooden house beside the Mekong.

Other interesting ‘Stay Another Day’ projects include Big Brother Mouse, where you can help produce and distribute children’s books, and the Lao Red Cross steam baths and massages whose proceeds go to support humanitarian work.

We take a languid cruise in a longboat up the wide khaki swath of the Mekong River. Fisherman throw their nets from boats, children splash in the velvet shallows, women collect river weeds, water buffalo roll in the mud, farmers tend their vegetable plots.  At the sacred Pak Ou Caves, gouged from limestone karsts at the river’s edge, we discover thousands of old and damaged Buddhas retired in peace high above the water, which is tinted orange like the monks’ habits by the sun’s dying rays.

When it gets dark, vendors set up their displays at the mellow night market. We wander undisturbed along the stalls, lit by colored lanterns, choosing delicately patterned silk scarves, rice paper light fixtures pressed with flowers, Hmong embroidery and silver jeweler, and even antique opium scales. Beware, however, of cheap machine-made products from other countries. In a nearby street, food stalls offer inexpensive and delectable Lao specialties such as laap, spicy marinated meat or fish with vegetables.

Indeed, we can’t get enough of the remarkable local food. We enjoy a lunch of watercress soup and local buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil salad at L’ Elephant, savoring also its sumptuous ode to colonial Asia on a rattan chair-decked terrace. At 3 Nagas we devour fiery kaipen, a rustic nori made from pressed and dried riverweeds that are fried with chili, sesame seeds, garlic and buffalo skin paste, and knap, delicate parcels of river fish with local vegetables and herbs wrapped in banana leaves. Afterwards, we stroll contentedly in the soft perfumed air along the lantern-lit riverfront to the Apsara Hotel.

At sunset on our final day, we climb the 328 steps to the temple on the top of Mount Phousi, right in the heart of town. Luang Prabang is spread before us in a tropical patchwork…its slow-motion traffic of bicycles and tuk tuks, its splotches of orange and black as monks with parasols stroll the footpaths, its red-trimmed blue longboats plying the latte-colored Mekong, its pastel-shuttered verandas, its golden temples soaring above mango and frangipani trees.

GETTING THERE: The easiest option is to fly from Bangkok to Luang Prabang on Bangkok Air or Lao Airlines.

VISA: $30 Lao visa can be bought on arrival.

Photo credit: jiazi @flickr (alms); Allie Caulfield @flickr (Buddha)

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Susan Gough Henly has written about travel, food, wine, and culture for twenty years contributing to such publications as The New York Times, The International Herald Tribune, Travel and Leisure, The Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast, The Guardian, The Toronto Star, Luxury Travel, The Australian, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, The Sun Herald, Royal Auto and Outback Magazine. Now based in Australia, she lived for many years in the United States, where she was editor of The Best Places guidebooks in Seattle as well as an editor at Workman Publishing in New York. She also worked for the Bordeaux Wine Trade Council in France.

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

First, the movie.

It was, ostensibly, a baseball movie – The Lost Son of Havana – about former baseball pitcher Luis Tiant.

In 1961, the Cleveland Indians brought the young pitcher to the United States to play professional baseball, following in the footsteps of his father, also a pitcher, who played in the Negro League for the New York Cubans.  While living out his dream, Tiant received a message from his parents back in Cuba – don’t return home.  The rise of the Castro regime made returning back to Cuba an unwise decision.

Tiant heeded the advice of his parents, but it would be 14 years before he saw them again.

Castro eventually allowed the elder Tiant’s to travel to the US (following intervention by then Senator George McGovern), and they saw their son play in the 1975 World Series, where he was the winning pitcher for two games against the Big Red Machine of Cincinnati.  Luis Sr. even through the first pitch of the game, which resulted in father and son being on the mound.  The Tiant’s stayed in the US for 15 months, as they watched there son play baseball and got to know him once again.  Eventually, they both passed away here in the US, within a day of one another.

If that was all the movie was about, it would be a nice, simple movie, with baseball as a subtext for a warm family, feel-good movie.  But the heart of the movie lies in following Luis as he is finally allowed to journey back to Cuba following a 46-year exile.  After a couple of previous attempts to return, all futile, this movie is about finally going home again, to a country that has changed nearly to the point of being unrecognizable.

Tiant reunites with elderly aunts, former baseball colleagues, and numerous extended family members and friends from the neighborhood, as he takes a trip down memory lane that is both joyous and painful.  A new generation of Cubans come out to meet him, thinking of him as not only a great baseball players, but as a “millionaire from the United States.”

The movie, which premiered at the 2009 Tribeca Film Festival, does a nice job of weaving old film clips into the filming of the journey back home.  It does an amazing job of showing the emotions of a rather stoic man, as he wrestles with the guilt over leaving his family and homeland, and his successes as opposed to the poverty of his former home.  There’s grief, there’s joy, there’s guilt, and just a teensy bit of hope as Luis Tiant says that he will return to Cuba again.

After watching the movie, I was left asking myself once again – why do we continue this crazy embargo on travel to Cuba?  Who is really hurt by it?

It’s a mere 90 miles away from our shore, but there’s a mountain of policy that says Tiant will probably never be able to cross that divide again.

So please. . . somebody. . . tell me again, why is this a good policy?

If I’ve piqued your interest, please take a look at the movie trailer:

Photo credit: wikimedia

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

I’ve been interested in this exhibit for some time, and not that’ we’ll be starting non-stop service to Houston, it’s moving up to the top of my must-see list.

The exhibit features thousands of terra cotta warriors that were found buried in the tomb of China’s First Emperor, Shi Huangdi.  The warriors were entombed with him in order that that he would be protected by them throughout eternity.  The exhibit features 100 sets of objects, including 20 complete life-size figures, and is representative of the emperor’s army.

The Houston Museum of Natural Science is located at One Hermann Circle Drive in Houston Texas, across from the Miller Outdoor Theater.  The museum is open daily, 9 am – 5 pm, and the last timed entrance to the Terra Cotta Warriors is at 4 pm.

Tickets are available online, and are for timed admission.  $30 adults, $24 children 3-11 and seniors.  Advanced tickets are recommended.

As a special promotion, you can receive a 10% discount at any Houston P.F. Chang’s China Bistro with the presentation of a ticket stub from the exhibit.  This promotion is good through November 30th, 2009, and some restrictions apply.

This exhibit runs through October 18th, 2009, after which it travels to the National Geographic Museum in Washington DC.  It will be on display there November 19th, 2009 through March 31, 2010.

This fascinates me.  And although I’m not a huge Chinese history fan, there’s something about it that intrigues me.  After I visit the exhibit, I’ll be sure to post a review along with my impressions of it.

Has anyone been that can chime in with some opinions?

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Honolulu is rich in military sites and history, and although at time it can be painful to think about, these sites should be on every visitors list of things to see and do.  The islands and the country were shaped by the events of Pearl Harbor, and whether you choose to go on your own or as part of a tour, I think any trip to the islands should include a stop at one of these locations.

Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor:  This site is administered by the National Park System, and in my book is the must-see historical site on the island.  It’s about 45 minutes from Waikiki, and is an easy drive.  It’s also served by several public transportation, and is a stop on many tours.  Like most visitors to the site, I was profoundly touched and moved by the experience.  There is no charge for admission, and the tour includes a brief video followed by a ride to the memorial.  You can read about my experience at the Arizona Memorial in a previous post.

Punchbowl:  Officially the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, this reverent site is the final resting place for veterans of both World Wars as well as Korean and Vietnam.  Courts of the Missing are especially somber, as these marble slabs list the name of military personnel who were lost or buried at sea or who were missing in action.  There is no charge for admission, and the site is reachable by car or on one of many tours.  You can read about why I prefer to experience Punchbowl in solitude in a previous post.

Pacific Aviation Museum:  This museum chronicle the history of the attack on Pearl Harbor with original film and photos, and a tour of Hangars 37 and 49.  Aviation buffs will love the collection of US and Japanese aircraft.  Tickets for the museum require jumping through a bunch of hoops as this is an active military base.  You can read what I thought about the Pacific Aviation Museum in a previous post.

Battleship Missouri Monument:  The “Mighty Mo” has a history filled with lots of stories starting with World War II, and continuing through right up to Operation Desert Storm.  The site now offers multi-media tours, combining footage and narration from some of the men who served onboard this ship, in an attempt to portray a realistic feel for what life onboard was really like.  This is the only one of the sites that I’ve not yet visited, and it’s on my list for the next trip. 

Photo credit:  wikimedia

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Whether our photos are professional quality, or merely serve as a memory of a wonderful adventure, photos have become an increasingly important part of travel.  And in the era of so many digital options, from cameras to online storage to editing software and more, there’s no reason for it to be a complicated process. (I’ve been trying out some new products so look for some reviews coming up soon!)

My photo today is a wonderful memory of a trip to the Pompeii ruins.  Located near Naples, Italy, Pompeii was destroyed during a two day eruption of Mount Vesuvius back in 79 AD.  The city was buried under ash and pumice, and for nearly 1700 years was presumed lost until its accidental re-discovery in the mid-1700’s.   The subsequent excavation of the site has been a glimpse at what life was like during the height of the Roman Empire.

Today, Pompeii is a popular tourist attraction, and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Millions of visitors explore the site each year, along with its sister city of Herculaneum.

I spent a full day wandering the ruins.  It was interesting getting a feel for how the city was laid out before the eruption, and noting how some building were totally decimated while others had major walls and other components left standing.  Some of the artwork that survived was amazing!  During the spring and summer months, the ruins are open from 8:30 am – 7:30 pm, and during the fall and winter till 5 pm.  A one day ticket is

To get to Pompeii, take the Circumvesuviana train to the Pompei stop.  The entrance to the ruins is just a short walk from the station.  One day admission is €11,00, and a 3-day admission covering 5 sites (Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis, Stabiae, and Boscoreale) is €20,00.  EU visitors under 18 or over 65, are FREE.  EU visitors ages 18-24 and teachers are half price.

Here are my suggestions on how to enjoy a visit to the ruins:

Plan to spend a full day.  There’s lots to see, and you will want time to explore what interests you.

• Wear comfortable flat walking shoes as you’ll be on your feet all day, and the site is hilly with uneven paths.  It may not have been polite, but I laughed at the people I saw trying to navigate the site in heels.
• Leave the strollers at home.  I saw people trying to push strollers up and down, but honestly, I’m not sure this is the best attraction for rolling along with the little ones.
• Opt for the audio guide.  While I didn’t follow along and listen to the entire guide, there are lots of sites numbered that match up with the guide.  I was interested in enough things to make it well worth the small additional charge.
• Bring water for certain, maybe a snack. You’ll want something to drink as you’re walking around.  You can buy food and beverage onsite, but bringing your own is both more convenient and cheaper (although onsite prices weren’t horrible).
• Don’t make big plans for the evening after visiting.  After a full day of wandering in the heat (it was March and quite warm), I was exhausted.  All I wanted was an easy evening in rather than a night on the town.

Photo credit:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

While some of the Boeing plants have relocated elsewhere, the plant at Paine Field (about 30 miles north of Seattle) is still home to The Future of Flight & Boeing Tour,

This tour of the Boeing factory lets you see the flight line where the 747, 767, 777, and 787 are made.  This tour takes you through one of the largest buildings in the world (by volume), as you learn how much room it takes to build a jumbo jet.

There’s lot to see on the tour so don’t forget to look up (futuristic aircraft are flying), down (a painted runway on the floor), and around (the nose of an airplane getting ready to take off).  And that’s just in the lobby!

Here are some other exhibits that you’ll see:

• Airplane Design: Learn how and why airplanes fly, and look at the components that go into making a plane like the fuselage, wings, engines, etc.  Stop off at one of the computer stations and try your hand at designing a plane.  Then see if it will fly.  Don’t worry, you’ll get lots of chances to make modifications as you visit the rest of the exhibits.
• Materials: Compare the fuselage from an old 707 to the new 787,and see how modern materials have changed the way plans are built.
• Passenger Experience: You know how cramped and uncomfortable those seats are, but it hasn’t always been that way.  Take a look at the more spacious interiors as well as take a look at what’s being done to make flying more comfortable.
• Flight Simulator: This is not your at-home computer game simulator, this is big-time.  There’s an additional charge, but it’s worth it, to ride the multi-passenger XJ5 Flight Simulator.  Since I missed the opportunity to fly on the Concord, this is as close as I’m going to get to supersonic speeds.
• Flight Systems: All the important stuff that you never see, like avionics, navigational systems and hydraulics.
• Flight Deck: From dials and switches of years gone by to the computerized flight deck of today, these are the tools that are used by men and women who fly the plane.  In a post-911 world, this is the only chance most people will have to see the flight deck.
• Manufacturing: Yeah, sure, Boeing isn’t the only one who makes planes, and this does seem like one big long commercial.  But hey, it’s their plant and it’s got some pretty cool 3-D animation.
• Engines: These big noisy things are responsible for getting the plane off the ground, and you can learn why.
• The Future:  Although air travel seems common place today, it’s important to remember that it all started with a dream and the Wright Brothers.  And lots of other people and other dreams since then.  No matter how silly a dream might seem, when you look around you’ll realize that it may be the shape of the future.
• Future of Flight Store: If you made a plane as you’ve passed through the exhibits, you can pick up a personalized color print of your design along with a list of your specifications.  And, of course, like any gift store, there’s all sort of books, toys, and memorabilia to spend your money on.

Boeing has some very strict safety and security regulations in place regarding the tour.  There are no exceptions, so familiarize yourself with them so you aren’t disappointed.

Continue reading for tour restrictions and additional information

• Everyone must be at least 4 feet tall to go on the tour.  Adults may not carry babies.  No strollers permitted.  (NOTE:  It’s not that they don’t like kids or little ones, but this is a safety regulation.)
• No photography.  Of any kind.
• Physically challenged visitors can be accommodated on the tour, but it does require advance notice (at the time of making reservations).
• You cannot carry any personal items on the tour.  No purses, backpacks, cell phones, etc.  You can leave things in the trunk of your car or you can rent a locker in the lobby.
• No food or drink allowed.  There are restrooms in the lobby area, but none on the tour.

The Future of Flight and Boeing Tour are located at 8415 Paine Field Boulevard in Mukilteo, Washington.  Hours are 8:30 am –5:30 pm daily.  Closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.  Tours begin on the hour, starting at 9 am, with the last tour starting at 3 pm, and last approximately 90 minutes.

General admission is $15, seniors and active military $14, children (15 and under) $8.  Admission to the gallery only, without the tour is $9, children (ages 6-15) $4.   Boeing employees get a discounted admission.

You can purchase tickets onsite, or online.  Advance ticket purchases have a $2.50 convenience charge added.  Spend the money to get the advance tickets.  This is a very popular tour, especially during summer and school vacations, and they fill up fast.

Photo credits:  All from flick, Boeing Plant, Air India 777

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Built between AD 72-80, the Coliseum was originally called the Flavian Amphitheater and was the center of the city of Rome.  It was the first and the largest (it covers about six acres) permanent amphitheater built in the Roman Empire.

The exterior of the building consisted of four floors – three tiers of arches and an attic. On top of the attic were a series of brackets and sockets that allowed a shade to be pulled over the arena for sun protection, and a canopy that could be pulled over to protect guests from the rain.  It was a fairly complex system that may have served as the forerunner to the many stadium and arenas today that have a retractable roof.

Anyone who has seen Russell Crowe in the movie Gladiator, has a pretty good idea of how the Coliseum operated.

80 doorways led into the interior arena area, with tiers of marble benches for spectators.  Seating was arranged by rank, with the emperor and noblemen at the front, and working men and women at the rear.  It was an efficient seating plan that allowed for the smooth arrival and departure of nearly 50,000 spectators.

Originally, the arena floor was wooden with sand over it.  There were various trapdoors that opened up letting lions and other ferocious beast enter the arena.  (You can still see the outline of many of those trapdoors today.)  There was also a fairly advanced underground aqueduct system that allowed the floor to be flooded for water battles.  This is where the gladiator battles and other public spectacles took place – the ultimate battle between the lions and Christians.  Many of both died in the games.

So what happened after the gladiators?  Keep reading to find out more!

In the middle ages, the Coliseum was used as a fortress and a quarry, but in 1749 Pope Benedict XIV declared it a sacred site where early Christians had been martyred.  Stations of the Cross were installed and it became a holy structure, although one that was allowed to fall into disrepair.

During the 19th century conservation of the Coliseum began, and its ties to the Catholic Church renewed.  In recent years, it has become a symbol of the international campaign against the death penalty, and the night illumination changes from white to gold whenever a death sentences is commuted, the prisoner released, or if a jurisdiction abolishes the death penalty. In December 2007 it was lit in gold when New Jersey abolished the death penalty.

Although the interior of the Coliseum is in ruins, you can still see several of the marble benches from early days.  It is used for an occasional event (a few hundred spectators can be accommodated in temporary seating), and larger events like concerts have been held outside the arena on the grounds.  Paul McCartney and Elton John both had concerts on the amphitheater grounds.  Each year on Good Friday, the Pope leads a torch lit procession for the Stations of the Cross.

The exterior grounds of the Coliseum can be wandered at no charge.  Look out for the young men dressed up like gladiators who’ll stand with you for a photo.  There’s a fee involved.   You can walked around the entire perimeter, enjoy the grounds,  marvel at the architecture, and soak in the feel of history.

Admission is charged to get inside, although EU citizens, students, and seniors have a reduced rate.  Timed tickets are available in advance or you can buy them at the Palatine.  The lines are shorter there than at the Coliseum itself, and the ticket covers admission to both sites.  An audio tour is available for an additional charge.

Of all the things that I saw in Rome, and there were lots of impressive things, the Coliseum was the highlight.  It was my first glimpse of the city.  I came up from the train station and stood for a minute clearing my head and getting my bearings.  I looked up at the Coliseum directly in front of me.  I stood there, across the street from history, and it simply took my breath away.

Photo credits:  all from personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Kissing the Blarney Stone has long been an Irish tradition, and not just on St. Patty’s Day.

Kissing the Blarney Stone

The Blarney Stone is actually a block of stone that’s built into Blarney Castle in Cork County, Ireland.  Legend has it that kissing the stone grants the person kissing it with the gift of gab.  While originally the gift of gab was considered a gift of eloquence and persuasiveness, today it is often seen as empty flattery.

Blarney Castle is a popular tourist site, both for tour of the castle and its garden as well as for the opportunity to Kiss the Blarney Stone.  Touring the castle and grounds requires a lot less effort that kissing the stone!

To kiss the stone, you must climb to the top of the castle and then lean backwards over the edge of the castle to kiss the stone.  The edge is fitted with protective railing so that no one falls over, and an assistant is handy to hold onto you while leaning out.

These safety precautions haven’t always been in place however, and there was a time when you had to have friends hold your ankles while you dangled out over the edge to kiss the stone.  Choose your friends wisely!

As for the truth of legend?  It’s provenance has long been the subject of debate, but I choose to believe.  How about you?

Photo credit:  flickr

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

This beautiful building was constructed as a result of a promise made by King Louis XV in 1744.  He was suffering from a serious and mysterious illness (later believed to be gout), and vowed that if he recovered he would construct a building worthy of the patron saint of Paris. 

He recovered, and construction of the Pantheon began in 1758 and was completed in 1789.  Many delays were related to lack of finances – a common reason for construction delays even today!

Since its completion coincided with the start of the French Revolution, the Revolutionary government order the building changed from a church to a mausoleum where the remains of great Frenchmen could be interred.  Although it has reverted to a church twice since then, today it is once again a mausoleum.

When I walked into the Pantheon it felt austere and cavernous.  I felt the need to use my “library voice.” 

It’s basically a cross-shaped building, with a domed center.  Around the walls are murals depicting religious and revolutionary figures (I particularly liked the series of Joan of Arc), as well at statuary and frescoes.

Continue reading for more information and photos!

In the center of the Pantheon beneath its dome, is a pendulum standing nearly 220 feet tall (67 meters).  This is Foucault’s Pendulum, named for Leon Foucault who, in 1851, built the pendulum to conduct experiments demonstrating the rotation of the earth.  I was absolutely mesmerized by its simplicity and beauty.

After spending time appreciating all this art and history, you’ll have the option of visiting the necropolis (mausoleum) or climbing stairs to get a view of Paris from the top.

Not entirely morbid, the Pantheon’s necropolis is also a work of art.  Here are buried many famous Frenchmen and one famous Frenchwoman.  A few of the notables include:  Alexandre Dumas (author of the Three Musketeers), Victor Hugo (author of Les Miserables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame), Voltaire, Rousseau, Emile Zola, Rene Descartes, Louis Braille and Pierre and Marie Curie (the latter the only woman buried here). 

Over the years there has been heated debate over who deserves and doesn’t deserve to be buried in this most sacred site.  Today, it takes an act of Parliament to be buried here.

I much preferred to climb up, however.  All 206 steps to the colonnade beneath the dome.  Don’t let the fact that this is a guided tour turn you away from this option.  It’s really only “guided” so that you don’t get lost on the way up!  And don’t worry about making the climb in record speed.  Go slow and rest along the way if you need to.

The view from the top is spectacular – a 360 degree view of all that Paris has to offer.  This is one of the best views in the city, in my opinion.

The Pantheon is located at Place du Pantheon in the 5th arrondissement.  The nearest metro is Cardinal Lemoine and the nearest RER is Luxembourg.

It is open 10 am – 6 pm October through March.  Starting April 1st it is open till 6:30 pm.  The upper area can only be visited April through September, and departure times very.  I’d recommend checking for a convenient tour time when you first arrive, and then work the remainder of your viewing around that time.

Admission is 8 Euros for adults, 5 Euros for ages 18-25, and free for everyone under 18.  It is an included admission on the Paris Museum Pass.  If you’ll be visiting several attractions, that’s a cost efficient option.

Photo credit:  all from personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Harry is a fellow Seattle resident, and a recognized expert on the life of one of the world’s most famous adventurers – Marco Polo.  Harry gave me his recently published book, and I was finally had time to sink my teeth into it.

Over a period of about ten years, Harry became the first person to re-trace Marco Polo’s 13,000 mile Silk Road across Europe and Asia. 

In three expeditions (1971, 1981, and 1985), and using every imaginable type of transportation (including camels, goatskin rafts, and farm tractors), this journey went from Venice to Israel, Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and finally crossed China to Beijing.

During this time Harry also produced and appeared in On the Roof of the World with Marco Polo, a documentary film about his travels.  The film premiered at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in 1981.

Following the completion of the last expedition, Harry wrote The Marco Polo Odyssey, chronicling his adventures and authentication of the journey of this famous 13th century explorer.  The book tells the story of Harry’s journey, weaving in a little history from the writings of Marco Polo as well, and how the Silk Road gave birth to what became global markets. 

Combining geography, history, culture, humor, adventure and a love of travel, this book is easy to read, getting you hooked from the very beginning.  It features photos and maps, and I felt like I was along with Harry for the journey as well. 

In Harry’s words:

As journeys often do, my Marco Polo odyssey began in dreams, designed with maps and books.  It began in a love of travel; an eight year old boy’s craving to explore places where ancient cultures lived and still live today.  In the end, my odyssey became “living history” making history come alive by traveling along the Old Silk Road and entering the world of Marco Polo.

The book comes with the DVD On the Roof of the World with Marco Polo.  You can find it at your local bookstore or through Amazon for $20.40.  You can purchase an autographed copy through the Marco Polo Foundation.

Image credit:  Amazon

Post from: Fly Away Cafe