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In the soft grey light of early morning, we sit quietly on a bamboo mat, wicker baskets of sticky rice beside us, across from a shuttered colonial mansion heavy with bougainvillea.  Birds chatter in the flame trees until a gong sounds, momentarily startling them into silence.

Around a corner, dozens of barefoot monks and novices appear in a swish of saffron, golden bowls hanging from orange shoulder straps.  Beside us, locals show us how to earn merit.  Men adorned with scarves over one shoulder as a mark of respect and kneeling women in traditional shawls put fistfuls of rice into the monks’ bowls as they lift the lids, barely stopping their gracious procession.

As in a dream, just as the rising sun gilds the ceramic-tiled temple roofs, the stream of gold vanishes and the monks return inside. Luang Prabang gets on with the business of the day.

The alms giving ritual, while common in many Asian communities, is particularly vibrant in this ancient capital of Lao culture where the royal family were patrons of Theravada Buddhism. Because of its remoteness in the lush mountains of Northern Laos, Luang Prabang preserved a strong Buddhist culture and traditional fabric of life during the French occupation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today there are no less than 32 active temples or wats, their sweeping roofs sheltering ornate murals, mosaics and intricately carved golden doors, in this pretty town nestled on a narrow peninsula at the convergence of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan.

In 1995, UNESCO granted Luang Prabang world heritage status because of the unique juxtaposition of the French colonial architecture with its temples and traditional Lao wooden buildings. It simply oozes the languid beauty of old Indochine.

We arrive at La Residence Phou Vao, hot and exhausted. Part of the Orient Express portfolio, La Residence is set on a hill above town and is a perfect place to savor the gentle ways of impeccable Laotian service. Its elegant open-sided reception area, graced with Lao silk weavings, artfully arranged pottery, and black and white photographs of Lao villagers, opens onto a lush garden shaded by bamboo and palm trees.  A small bougainvillea and frangipani bedecked stupa floats in a lotus pool.  Our spacious room…with four-poster bed draped in mosquito netting and comfortable sofa…is a study in rich tropical woods and white linens.

We restore our equilibrium by luxuriating Lao style: a cooling dip in the infinity pool before traditional Hmong deep-tissue massages with hot indigo herbal compresses in one of the serene spa pavilions that encircle a second pool. As dusk gently falls we join the head Lao chef for a cooking class on the terrace as other staff transform the pool area into a magical outdoor restaurant, draping dining tables in traditional silks, lighting lanterns in the trees and carefully floating an armada of candles on the water’s surface.

We also spend a couple of days right in the old town in the delightful contemporary-styled Apsara Hotel, with its jewel-bright silks and fuchsia lanterns overlooking the quiet Khan River. We discover the magnificent food market that weaves along roadsides under pagoda eves and airy colonial verandas. Vendors are busy arranging neat piles of basil, eggplants and bananas. Pyramids of red, brown and golden rice sit beside massive mounds of vermicelli and sparkling fresh Mekong river fish and eels. Mothers in traditional Lao sarongs select eggs, paw paws and tomatoes, fermented fish paste, chokos and chiles. There are marvelous swaths of exotic greens, wild boar trotters, kaffir limes, and clusters of ginger and mushrooms. A woman with a shoulder yoke carries baskets of watercress; a child grasps a live chicken; bouquets of gardenias perfume the bright morning sunshine.

After strong Lao coffee and pastries at the Jo Ma Bakery, set up when the Scandinavians helped restore the royal palace, we explore the former palace, which is now the national museum. Built by Vietnamese laborers and funded by the French colonialists it is a curious hodgepodge, with the crest of Erawan or three elephant heads of Laos, the French fleur de lys, Italian marble stairs and an eclectic collection of Art Deco furniture and Buddha statues. A replica of the pure gold, standing little Pra Bang Buddha, after which the town is named, is housed in a pavilion in the grounds. At 6pm, we return to watch elaborately costumed and masked dancers from the Royal Ballet Theatre tell the story of Ramayana.

The most elaborate wats are located between the palace and the fingertip of the peninsula. At the 18th century Wat Mai we see gold stucco bas reliefs of the last incarnation of the historic Buddha while at Wat Xieng Thong we marvel at a rare reclining Buddha and spectacular glass mosaics. Even more transporting, however, is to peek inside temple courtyards where orange robes flutter in the breeze and young novices play under the palm trees.

All over town there are a number of remarkable shops showcasing Lao textiles, woodwork, and silver. Many are identified by the sign ‘Stay Another Day,’ which is an initiative promoting sustainable tourism by connecting travelers with organizations that are helping to conserve local culture and support community projects.

One of the most impressive is Caruso Lao started by Canadian designer Sandra Yuck. Her gallery-quality shop displays exquisite contemporary handcrafted silk furnishings and scarves, silver, and hand-made furniture and wooden bowls that are made by some of the most talented artisans in Laos. At Ock Pop Tok, which means East meets West, Brit Joanna Smith linked up with local partners to help reinvigorate the Lao weaving industry. Today, you not only can buy stunning silk creations and learn about Lao textile traditions but also take dyeing and weaving workshops with local master crafts people under a traditional Lao wooden house beside the Mekong.

Other interesting ‘Stay Another Day’ projects include Big Brother Mouse, where you can help produce and distribute children’s books, and the Lao Red Cross steam baths and massages whose proceeds go to support humanitarian work.

We take a languid cruise in a longboat up the wide khaki swath of the Mekong River. Fisherman throw their nets from boats, children splash in the velvet shallows, women collect river weeds, water buffalo roll in the mud, farmers tend their vegetable plots.  At the sacred Pak Ou Caves, gouged from limestone karsts at the river’s edge, we discover thousands of old and damaged Buddhas retired in peace high above the water, which is tinted orange like the monks’ habits by the sun’s dying rays.

When it gets dark, vendors set up their displays at the mellow night market. We wander undisturbed along the stalls, lit by colored lanterns, choosing delicately patterned silk scarves, rice paper light fixtures pressed with flowers, Hmong embroidery and silver jeweler, and even antique opium scales. Beware, however, of cheap machine-made products from other countries. In a nearby street, food stalls offer inexpensive and delectable Lao specialties such as laap, spicy marinated meat or fish with vegetables.

Indeed, we can’t get enough of the remarkable local food. We enjoy a lunch of watercress soup and local buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil salad at L’ Elephant, savoring also its sumptuous ode to colonial Asia on a rattan chair-decked terrace. At 3 Nagas we devour fiery kaipen, a rustic nori made from pressed and dried riverweeds that are fried with chili, sesame seeds, garlic and buffalo skin paste, and knap, delicate parcels of river fish with local vegetables and herbs wrapped in banana leaves. Afterwards, we stroll contentedly in the soft perfumed air along the lantern-lit riverfront to the Apsara Hotel.

At sunset on our final day, we climb the 328 steps to the temple on the top of Mount Phousi, right in the heart of town. Luang Prabang is spread before us in a tropical patchwork…its slow-motion traffic of bicycles and tuk tuks, its splotches of orange and black as monks with parasols stroll the footpaths, its red-trimmed blue longboats plying the latte-colored Mekong, its pastel-shuttered verandas, its golden temples soaring above mango and frangipani trees.

GETTING THERE: The easiest option is to fly from Bangkok to Luang Prabang on Bangkok Air or Lao Airlines.

VISA: $30 Lao visa can be bought on arrival.

Photo credit: jiazi @flickr (alms); Allie Caulfield @flickr (Buddha)

—

Susan Gough Henly has written about travel, food, wine, and culture for twenty years contributing to such publications as The New York Times, The International Herald Tribune, Travel and Leisure, The Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast, The Guardian, The Toronto Star, Luxury Travel, The Australian, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, The Sun Herald, Royal Auto and Outback Magazine. Now based in Australia, she lived for many years in the United States, where she was editor of The Best Places guidebooks in Seattle as well as an editor at Workman Publishing in New York. She also worked for the Bordeaux Wine Trade Council in France.

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

And I’m not talking about a vacation to go visit family – I’m talking about a real vacation – for everyone!

Ashford Castle, County Mayo, Ireland

I first tried the holiday vacation plan nearly 10 years ago, and while I don’t do it every year, it’s become an important part of mixing up my holiday celebrations.  It’s also done a lot to restore peace and balance in my life, something for which I am very thankful!  The vacations have occasionally occasionally included extended family members, sometimes not, and I’ve found that getting people out of their usual places and roles, can go a long way toward establishing new traditions and having fun.  You don’t have to do the same thing every single year!

In past years, I’ve celebrated Thanksgiving on a cruise (several times, including cruises to Mexico, the Caribbean, and through the Panama Canal) and in Hawaii.  This year’s plans haven’t been finalized yet, but since I’ll be in London earlier in November, this may be a stay-at-home year.

Need some inspiration to do a mind switch on a Thanksgiving vacation?  Why not suggest something different for this year?

Here’s a Thanksgiving travel package that I came across to get you started thinking outside the box:  Spend Thanksgiving, including a hearty dinner, at Ashford Castle in County Mayo, Ireland.

Ashford Castle is located on 350 acres on the shores of Lough Corrib and the River Cong.  It’s surrounded by the lake, river, mountains, and lots of green.  The Castle has 83 guestrooms, and features an equestrian center, a falconry school (the first in Ireland), a 9-hole golf course, and fly fishing.  There are several dining rooms and bars on property.

For a Thanksgiving stay, you can take advantage of the Thanksgiving special which is a 3-night package that includes breakfast each morning, and a gourmet Irish-style Thanksgiving dinner.  Packages start at €375 (about $548) per person, and is offered for November 26 – 28th.

Don’t get me wrong – I love my family.  Sometimes, though, you have to break with the old to establish new, healthier, and more memorable family traditions.

Have you vacationed for Thanksgiving?  How did it work out?

Photo credit:  Courtesy of Ashford Castle

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Today’s Matchbook Monday is a little trip down Las Vegas memory lane, back to the glory years of the desert, and the once infamous Desert Inn.  The Desert Inn was once the home to reclusive billionaire Howard Hughes, who rented a couple floors and holed up there for so long that he eventually bought the place.  This was the first of many Las Vegas purchases that Howard Hughes made.

The Desert Inn was one of the premium resorts on the strip, and all the top stars played its Crystal Showroom.  You weren’t anybody till you played the DI.  The original 1960’s version of Ocean’s Eleven was shot here, and it was the setting for the television show Vega$ which aired in the late 70’s.

The resort celebrated it’s 50th birthday in 2000, with a huge, splashy week long party that included many of the starts that had played there over the years.  Just three short days later, the resort was purchased by Steve Wynn.  The hotel eventually closed and was demolished, making way for the Wynn Resort.

I remember visiting the Desert Inn at a time when it was considered one of the elite spots on the strip.  Anyone else?

Photo credit:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Take a read and see if you agree that these items do not bode well for a good stay:

1. Lines.  All the time.  To check in, to check out, to ask a question.  If the lobby is always full of lines, you need more staff.  When I see only one or two front desk staff trying to juggle 10-15 people, it tells me that the no one really cares about my time.
2. Failure to make eye contact.  When I come up to the front desk to check in, take your eyes away from the computer screen for two seconds to say hello.  Greeting me and making me feel welcome is part of the hotel experience.  When you don’t look up, and just mumble that you want my credit card, you’re telling me that my money is important, but I’m not.  Well, my money doesn’t make the decision about where to stay!
3. Slow elevators.  It shouldn’t be that complicated to get to my room.  When I see people waiting on the elevator, but no elevator seems to appear, it again tells me that you don’t respect my time.  Even worse, is when there’s a bank of elevators, but only one seems to ever appear at the main floor.  I’m anxious to get to my room, so please make it as easy as possible.
4. Mumbling.  Didn’t anyone learn how to enunciate?!  Many hotels now have standard verbiage that is used to greet every guest.  Okay, that’s fine, but can you at least speak audibly so that I know what you’re saying.  “Hi, my nh;oi  gog n  t’ o ihln” may mean something to you, but to me it’s just gibberish.
5. People sprawled in the lobby.  I know that group bookings can be a lucrative part of a hotel’s business, but do they have to sprawl all over the lobby.  Countless times I’ve had to pick my way around students sleeping on the floor, people with bags blocked all ingress and egress, or bags stacked at the front desk because it seemed a convenient place to leave them.  I can’t stay at your hotel if I can’t get in it!
6. Trainees.  Everyone had a first day on the job.  We all had to take time to learn skills that we now take for granted.  I understand the need to train new staff members by having them work alongside your best employees.  But training at peak check in/check out periods is emphasizing training over customer service.  And there should be a time limit on how long a transaction should take.  I’m not going to get crabby with a trainee, as I really do empathize, but at some point, you need to get someone to take over and complete the transaction so you don’t have lines all over the place.

I’m sure there are others that have slipped my mind, but these are the annoyances that I see most frequently.  How about you?  Did I mess your hotel check-in pet peeve?

Photo credit: dlisabona  @flickr

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The Fountains at Bellagio, Las Vegas

With so many families wishing to vacation close to home this year, and often trying to find a destination that keeps both adults and kids satisfied, Las Vegas seems to be cropping up as destination that’s starting to appeal to families once again.

Las Vegas offers bargains galore, on food and accommodations, has shows suitable for all ages, and hotels that sport some pretty great pool areas.    Although Las Vegas will never shed it’s well-deserved party reputation, and I enjoy the city for a weekend getaway, there are lots of families and adults who want to take advantage of the many amenities the city has to offer, while bypassing the more  risque activities.

That’s my mission for the next few days.  To spot out what’s G-Rated in Sin City.

I already have a pretty decent list to choose from, along with a couple of shows, but if you have some favorite all age-appropriate Las Vegas spots, please leave me a comment with your suggestions.

Photo credit:  The Fountains of Bellagio courtesy of MGM Mirage

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Maybe what you need to do to get out of your rut is to look at vacation through a different lens, and perhaps a vacation club will help you branch out and see the world.

Royal Holiday is a premiere vacation club, that allows you to purchase credits to exchange for accommodations over the life of your membership.  Unlike a traditional time share, which locks you into one location, the vacation club allows you to choose a different vacation spot each year.    (Okay, if you really want to do the same thing every year, you can still do that with a vacation club, but c’mon – live a little!)

For a warm weather destination you could choose the Paradise Beach Villas in Aruba, or maybe try a cultural destination like Paris or London.  If you’re ready to try something more exotic, try Morocco or Chiang Mai.   And if you really don’t want to get too far from home, there are plenty of locations stateside like Lake Tahoe, Orlando, San Diego and Vail.  There are over 180 destinations in 52 countries, so you know you’ll find somewhere you want to go!

Royal Holiday also has owns and operates a few all-inclusive hotels in Mexico in Cancun, Cozumel, Ixtapa, and Acapulco.  Blogging pal Jon, at The DC Traveler, visited the Park Royal Resort in Cozumel, so check out what he had to say about it.

Because they believe in their premium product, and want you to spend some time checking them out to decide if it’s an option for you, Royal Holiday has offered a GREAT prize for one Flyaway Cafe reader!

First, here’s the prize:

• Royal Holiday-branded polo shirt
• Royal Holiday-branded gym bag
• Royal Holiday-branded hat
• Royal Holiday-branded towel
• Flipcam Ultra

Yep, all that logo swag, AND a Flip video cam so that you can shoot some video on your next vacation.  How great is that?!

Here’s all you need to do:

Go to Royal Holiday and check them out.  Take a look at their history and what they offer. See if a vacation club offers good value for your personal travel style.  Then, go look to see if they have something to offer in your favorite vacation destination – or maybe somewhere that’s destined to become your new favorite location.

Leave a comment here telling me what that location is and why.

Deadline for comments is Tuesday, August 1st at midnight ET.  At that time, I’ll random select a number a match it up with the comment.  You must leave an email so that I can contact you.  This content is only open to residents of the United States, Canada, and Mexico (shipping requirements).

I’ll start it off with my choice of the Sheraton Casablanca in Morocco.  Why?  Morocco fascinates me – the culture, the people, the food.  But I don’t know that I’m adventurous enough to go it alone in the country.   I’d like the convenience of a modern place to stay, alleviating the stress of the unfamiliar place to stay, leaving me free to explore something totally outside by comfort zone during the day.

How about you?  Where do you want to stay and why?

Photo credit:  Royal Holiday

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

You don’t have to be a celebrity, or come as part of their entourage, but you do have to have money.

Little Whale Cay, a private island in the Berry Islands in the Bahamas, is available for parties of up to 12 to rent out.  The 93-acres island has its own airstrip, allowing you to fly directly into the island, along with three villas for guests:  Little Whale, Peacock, and Flamingo.  A staff of 13 keeps the island and its resort humming along.

Little Whale House is the main villa, and serves as a popular spot to gather.  It has a bar, satellite fed flat screen television, 2 bedroom suites, a study with a computer (there’s wifi on the island), living room/dining area with a fireplace, terrace, and a variety of outdoor dining spots.  Flamingo House has 4 bedrooms (2 of which are suites), a living room and terrace.  Peacock House has one bedroom suite, a living room and terrace.  A pathway connects the villas, but each is still private.

The resort is set on a white sand beach, surrounded by beautiful blue water.  It also features an infinity pool, fitness center, tennis court, kayaks, and a variety of boats for fishing, cruising, or water sports.  You can lounge around all day, or just take it easy, whatever your heart desires.

The rest of the island serves as a sanctuary to different species of birds, including flamingos, Bahamian ducks, and Bahama woodstar humming birds.  In the water you’ll see lots of beautiful sea life, and if you’re luck, maybe a manatee (in photo).

What’s this over-the-top experience going to cost?  Keep reading to find out.

$9,500 per day.

That price tag includes accommodations, all meals (prepared by a private chef based on your personal preferences), beverages (including house wine and spirits), use of all island facilities and boats (including fuel), telephone calls, and satellite wifi,  Tennis pro, bone fish guide, spa services, wave runners, and scuba diving can be arranged for an additional cost.  An additional 15% charge is made to cover Bahamian room tax and staff gratuities.

If you have the money to splurge for a special occasion (like a birthday the end of this month, hint, hint), Little Whale Cay will give you a once in a lifetime vacation experience.

Photo credit: divemasterking2000 @flickr

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Today, though, I step back to a popular destination, Las Vegas, and the Imperial Palace Hotel & Casino.

Located right on the Las Vegas strip at 3535 Las Vegas Boulevard South, the Imperial Palace is an Asian-themed hotel owned by the Harrah’s corporation.

It’s two primary attractions are the Auto Collection and Legends in Concert.

The Auto Collection is the world’s largest classic car showroom, and features over $100 million dollars in inventory.  Over 250 antique and classic cars are on display, nearly all for sale, and walking through is like taking a little snapshot of history.

Legends in Concert, a long-running musical presentation by celebrity impersonators.  While the show moved next door to Harrah’s just a few months ago, it’s substantially linked to the Imperial Palace where it originated.

The Imperial Palace is not typically one of those hotels that’s at the top of my list when choosing a place to stay in Las Vegas.  It’s been many years since I’ve stayed there, but on that occasion I had the opportunity to visit the spa.  Between soaking in various pools, and a fabulous to-die-for-massage, it ranks as one of my best spa experiences.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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Villa Verano is a vacation rental located in the most elite residential neighborhood in Puerto Vallarta, on the beach in Conchas Chinas.  You’ll have a beautiful view of the Bay of Banderas, and a steps away from the beach.

The villa is privately owned, but is occasionally available for rental.  This is luxury at its finest, and you can make arrangements for a private chef and staff to cater to your every whim.  Enjoy some time by the pool, or walk down the stairs to the beach – although you’re walking distance away from shops, restaurant,s and nightlife, you may not want to leave.

Big sigh!

Luxury like this doesn’t come cheap, but if you’re looking for a special getaway, this romantic destination is to die for.

Photo credit:  personal collection

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

Here are a few things to keep in mind when looking for that FREE hotel room upgrade:

1. Manners are everything.  You’ll find a front desk clerk will be more likely to pass on an upgrade if you are polite, gracious, and engage in a bit of small talk.  A polite good afternoon, how are you will go a long way to starting the conversation off on the right foot.
2. If there’s a line up a mile long, your chances for an upgrade are not as good as if it’s a quiet time and you can engage in a little conversation.
3. Mention if it’s a special occasion like a birthday or anniversary, or if it’s a return trip to the place of your honeymoon.  But be realistic and don’t oversell it — this tip is becoming a bit overused, and an experienced front desk clerk can sniff out a ruse a mile away.
4. If you’ve just been through a grueling day, the flight from hell, had a child throw up on you on the plane, or have been through a harrowing travel day, laughingly share the experience with the front desk clerk.  Mention how great it’s going to feel to get some peace and quiet, or how much you want to take a shower and get cleaned up.  If you can face the difficulties, and come out of it with your humor intact, you are the exact kind of person they want to reward with an upgrade.
5. If the hotel is oversold, there may be less room for the clerk to offer you an upgrade as those room may have been sold at a premium price.
6. It there is a large convention group at the property, the clerk may not be able to upgrade you to a suite (they are often booked for meetings or conference social events), but you may get an upgrade to a better floor or location.  Group room blocks are often at lower prices, leaving premium room available.
7. If you are a member of the hotel’s frequent guest program you may be entitled to a guaranteed upgrade.
8. If the hotel is not your usual hotel of choice, mention that – adding that you’ve heard good things about this property and are thinking that it might be time for a change in your booking habits.  Letting people know that your business loyalty is up for grabs may attract attention.  “I’ve always used your competitor across town, but decided it was time to shop my business around.  I like what I’ve seen here so far.”
9. Just ask.  A big sigh and a gracious inquiry can often lead to an upgrade.  “I’ve had a really difficult day.  Is there a chance you can help me salvage it by helping me out with an upgrade.”
10. If this answer is no let it go.  Often times something will come up before the check in process is complete, and you don’t want to blow your chances by being an ugly blowhard.

I think the easiest upgrade I got was checking into a local hotel.  I was on a super-deep discounted rate, one that should never have seen the glimmer of a chance at an upgrade.  At check in, I greeted the woman at the front desk and engaged in some minor small talk.  She offered me a choice of two different rooms (both of which were boring, I’m certain), and asked which I’d prefer.  I smiled and told her that since I was unfamiliar with her property, that I trust her judgment, and asked her to select the room she’d choose.  There was some tapping away at the keys, and then she handed me my room packet.  As she did, she smiled and said, “I’d prefer a suite – so enjoy!”

And I did!

Photo credit: flickr

Post from: Fly Away Cafe