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In the soft grey light of early morning, we sit quietly on a bamboo mat, wicker baskets of sticky rice beside us, across from a shuttered colonial mansion heavy with bougainvillea.  Birds chatter in the flame trees until a gong sounds, momentarily startling them into silence.

Around a corner, dozens of barefoot monks and novices appear in a swish of saffron, golden bowls hanging from orange shoulder straps.  Beside us, locals show us how to earn merit.  Men adorned with scarves over one shoulder as a mark of respect and kneeling women in traditional shawls put fistfuls of rice into the monks’ bowls as they lift the lids, barely stopping their gracious procession.

As in a dream, just as the rising sun gilds the ceramic-tiled temple roofs, the stream of gold vanishes and the monks return inside. Luang Prabang gets on with the business of the day.

The alms giving ritual, while common in many Asian communities, is particularly vibrant in this ancient capital of Lao culture where the royal family were patrons of Theravada Buddhism. Because of its remoteness in the lush mountains of Northern Laos, Luang Prabang preserved a strong Buddhist culture and traditional fabric of life during the French occupation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today there are no less than 32 active temples or wats, their sweeping roofs sheltering ornate murals, mosaics and intricately carved golden doors, in this pretty town nestled on a narrow peninsula at the convergence of the Mekong and its tributary, the Khan.

In 1995, UNESCO granted Luang Prabang world heritage status because of the unique juxtaposition of the French colonial architecture with its temples and traditional Lao wooden buildings. It simply oozes the languid beauty of old Indochine.

We arrive at La Residence Phou Vao, hot and exhausted. Part of the Orient Express portfolio, La Residence is set on a hill above town and is a perfect place to savor the gentle ways of impeccable Laotian service. Its elegant open-sided reception area, graced with Lao silk weavings, artfully arranged pottery, and black and white photographs of Lao villagers, opens onto a lush garden shaded by bamboo and palm trees.  A small bougainvillea and frangipani bedecked stupa floats in a lotus pool.  Our spacious room…with four-poster bed draped in mosquito netting and comfortable sofa…is a study in rich tropical woods and white linens.

We restore our equilibrium by luxuriating Lao style: a cooling dip in the infinity pool before traditional Hmong deep-tissue massages with hot indigo herbal compresses in one of the serene spa pavilions that encircle a second pool. As dusk gently falls we join the head Lao chef for a cooking class on the terrace as other staff transform the pool area into a magical outdoor restaurant, draping dining tables in traditional silks, lighting lanterns in the trees and carefully floating an armada of candles on the water’s surface.

We also spend a couple of days right in the old town in the delightful contemporary-styled Apsara Hotel, with its jewel-bright silks and fuchsia lanterns overlooking the quiet Khan River. We discover the magnificent food market that weaves along roadsides under pagoda eves and airy colonial verandas. Vendors are busy arranging neat piles of basil, eggplants and bananas. Pyramids of red, brown and golden rice sit beside massive mounds of vermicelli and sparkling fresh Mekong river fish and eels. Mothers in traditional Lao sarongs select eggs, paw paws and tomatoes, fermented fish paste, chokos and chiles. There are marvelous swaths of exotic greens, wild boar trotters, kaffir limes, and clusters of ginger and mushrooms. A woman with a shoulder yoke carries baskets of watercress; a child grasps a live chicken; bouquets of gardenias perfume the bright morning sunshine.

After strong Lao coffee and pastries at the Jo Ma Bakery, set up when the Scandinavians helped restore the royal palace, we explore the former palace, which is now the national museum. Built by Vietnamese laborers and funded by the French colonialists it is a curious hodgepodge, with the crest of Erawan or three elephant heads of Laos, the French fleur de lys, Italian marble stairs and an eclectic collection of Art Deco furniture and Buddha statues. A replica of the pure gold, standing little Pra Bang Buddha, after which the town is named, is housed in a pavilion in the grounds. At 6pm, we return to watch elaborately costumed and masked dancers from the Royal Ballet Theatre tell the story of Ramayana.

The most elaborate wats are located between the palace and the fingertip of the peninsula. At the 18th century Wat Mai we see gold stucco bas reliefs of the last incarnation of the historic Buddha while at Wat Xieng Thong we marvel at a rare reclining Buddha and spectacular glass mosaics. Even more transporting, however, is to peek inside temple courtyards where orange robes flutter in the breeze and young novices play under the palm trees.

All over town there are a number of remarkable shops showcasing Lao textiles, woodwork, and silver. Many are identified by the sign ‘Stay Another Day,’ which is an initiative promoting sustainable tourism by connecting travelers with organizations that are helping to conserve local culture and support community projects.

One of the most impressive is Caruso Lao started by Canadian designer Sandra Yuck. Her gallery-quality shop displays exquisite contemporary handcrafted silk furnishings and scarves, silver, and hand-made furniture and wooden bowls that are made by some of the most talented artisans in Laos. At Ock Pop Tok, which means East meets West, Brit Joanna Smith linked up with local partners to help reinvigorate the Lao weaving industry. Today, you not only can buy stunning silk creations and learn about Lao textile traditions but also take dyeing and weaving workshops with local master crafts people under a traditional Lao wooden house beside the Mekong.

Other interesting ‘Stay Another Day’ projects include Big Brother Mouse, where you can help produce and distribute children’s books, and the Lao Red Cross steam baths and massages whose proceeds go to support humanitarian work.

We take a languid cruise in a longboat up the wide khaki swath of the Mekong River. Fisherman throw their nets from boats, children splash in the velvet shallows, women collect river weeds, water buffalo roll in the mud, farmers tend their vegetable plots.  At the sacred Pak Ou Caves, gouged from limestone karsts at the river’s edge, we discover thousands of old and damaged Buddhas retired in peace high above the water, which is tinted orange like the monks’ habits by the sun’s dying rays.

When it gets dark, vendors set up their displays at the mellow night market. We wander undisturbed along the stalls, lit by colored lanterns, choosing delicately patterned silk scarves, rice paper light fixtures pressed with flowers, Hmong embroidery and silver jeweler, and even antique opium scales. Beware, however, of cheap machine-made products from other countries. In a nearby street, food stalls offer inexpensive and delectable Lao specialties such as laap, spicy marinated meat or fish with vegetables.

Indeed, we can’t get enough of the remarkable local food. We enjoy a lunch of watercress soup and local buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil salad at L’ Elephant, savoring also its sumptuous ode to colonial Asia on a rattan chair-decked terrace. At 3 Nagas we devour fiery kaipen, a rustic nori made from pressed and dried riverweeds that are fried with chili, sesame seeds, garlic and buffalo skin paste, and knap, delicate parcels of river fish with local vegetables and herbs wrapped in banana leaves. Afterwards, we stroll contentedly in the soft perfumed air along the lantern-lit riverfront to the Apsara Hotel.

At sunset on our final day, we climb the 328 steps to the temple on the top of Mount Phousi, right in the heart of town. Luang Prabang is spread before us in a tropical patchwork…its slow-motion traffic of bicycles and tuk tuks, its splotches of orange and black as monks with parasols stroll the footpaths, its red-trimmed blue longboats plying the latte-colored Mekong, its pastel-shuttered verandas, its golden temples soaring above mango and frangipani trees.

GETTING THERE: The easiest option is to fly from Bangkok to Luang Prabang on Bangkok Air or Lao Airlines.

VISA: $30 Lao visa can be bought on arrival.

Photo credit: jiazi @flickr (alms); Allie Caulfield @flickr (Buddha)

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Susan Gough Henly has written about travel, food, wine, and culture for twenty years contributing to such publications as The New York Times, The International Herald Tribune, Travel and Leisure, The Wine Spectator, The Wine Enthusiast, The Guardian, The Toronto Star, Luxury Travel, The Australian, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, The Sun Herald, Royal Auto and Outback Magazine. Now based in Australia, she lived for many years in the United States, where she was editor of The Best Places guidebooks in Seattle as well as an editor at Workman Publishing in New York. She also worked for the Bordeaux Wine Trade Council in France.

Post from: Fly Away Cafe

I LOVE this store, and love the assortment of travel gear, clothing, and odds and ends that they carry.  And, it just so happens, I spend a lot of money at this store, too.  Which should serve as additional proof that I love the products.

Most fall and winter hats seem to be of the stocking cap, pull over your head and mat down your hair version.  Probably warm and comfortable, but could I get just a little bit of style?!

Then I saw the Devata Hat.  I tried it on a couple times, but really wasn’t sure.  Saw a bunch of other people try it on, and the variety of different ways it could be angled on the head, and I was sold.  It scrunches and adjusts on your head, and even has a cute little hat rim that can be flipped up or down.  Yes, it’s a little bit girly, but it’s did the job of keeping me warm and still looking good, and will look great in the city or country.

The Devata Hat is made with eco-friendly soy and wool, and comes in camel and light pebble. (I got the light pebble.)  Hand wash in cold water, and lay flat to dry.  $30.

Photo credit: Ex Officio

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I love sightseeing, but the pressure to hit a laundry list of attractions can make your vacation feel like a competition, or even worse, work! One tactic that helps me keep my “must see” list under control is to limit it to three destinations. List checkers like my husband still feel like they’ve “accomplished” something. And it gives dawdlers like me enough space on our itinerary to enjoy a second cup of coffee – or aperitif – at a charming, out of the way café.

Here’s my “Three to See” in San Francisco!

Crissy Field and Golden Gate Bridge

As soon as you catch sight of the iconic red-orange Golden Gate Bridge, stretching across to Marin County, you’ll be glad you made the trip to Crissy Field in the historic Presidio National Park, even if you just get out of the car for a few minutes and soak up the views.

Wind, rain or shine, the Bay is filled with sailors and surfers. The island of Alcatraz seems close enough to touch, the San Francisco skyline stretches out to your right, and the seaside town of Sausalito, which will look familiar from many appearances on TV and in movies, is just across the bay.

History and aviation buffs will be fascinated by Crissy Fields’ decommissioned hangers, and vintage photos of aircraft dating back to the earliest days of flight.

You can bring a picnic lunch, pick up sandwiches and drinks at the Crissy Field Center or get an organic snack at the cute – and aptly named — Warming Hut Café.

Just remember to bring an extra sweatshirt or two – even when the famous fog is away, it’s still one of the windiest places in the city.

The Exploratorium

Just a few steps away from Crissy Field, at the Palace of Fine Arts, you’ll find the Exploratorium, a family friendly “Museum of science, art and human perception.”  There are loads of interactive exhibits, and touching is encouraged – at last, a fun museum for the kids! In fact, it’s a hand-on learning environment for kids of all ages.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission is $14 for adults, $11 for seniors, people with disabilities and youth ages 13-17, and $9 for each little one between 4-12. Under 3, get in free! Also, the admission is free the first Wednesday of every month, but plan to arrive early to beat the crowds.

The Exploratorium is also a part of the CityPass program, which is definitely worth considering if you plan to hit a few museums during your visit to SF:

The Ferry Building and Farmer’s Market

If you don’t have time to visit the Central Valley farms and Napa Valley vineyards, take an afternoon at the Ferry Building  at the base of Market Street in the heart of downtown San Francisco. Foodies in particular will enjoy this recently renovated emporium that celebrates the local culture of food.

Open storefronts display the best produce, wine, cheese, chocolate and aromatic oil olive from the region. You can sample cuisine prepared in styles from around the globe. And on Tuesdays and Saturdays a Farmer’s Market with dozens of stalls fills your senses with the sights and aromas of fruit, vegetables and flowers.

There’s no charge to stroll through the Ferry Building or Farmer’s Market, but be warned: your pocketbook will be tempted by gelato, fresh bread and gorgeous organic produce at every turn!

Cat Lincoln is a freelance writer and social media consultant based in San Francisco, where she and her husband are often mistaken for tourists because they always have such a good time. In addition to sharing her favorite travel tips on UpTake, she is a contributor to style and green sites including StyleList, GreenDaily, and Tonic News.  Cat is also the co-founder of humorous pop culture sites 40 Whatever and wishbone clover.

In her spare time Cat is an amateur photographer, and is always on the lookout for new and exciting restaurants, especially ones with good desserts.

Photo credit:  Cat Lincoln

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A great LA shopping experience, from both the shopping and the experience point of view, is the Rose Bowl Flea Market.  This is not some lightweight flea market, no sirree!  This is a monster event, with over 2,500 vendors attracting 15-20,000 buyers.  Operating the second Sunday of every month, you’ll find vintage jewelry, clothing, handmade crafts, antiques, plants, collectibles, and just about everything under the sun.  The flea market has been in operation for over 40 years, so you know it’s offering some good stuff.

The market features one-time vendors, setting up shop as an estate sale.  Others are brick and mortar businesses, who head to the market hoping to get their wares in front of a different customer base.  For others, it’s a small business allowing them to sell their handicraft, art, or some other hobby item.  A lot of the vendors are regulars, and you’ll see them week after week, year after year.

Just as there are lots of different kinds of sellers, the buyers are equally diverse.

Some people come to the market to root out great buys and hidden gems.  Others to look for vintage designer clothing and jewelry that would be otherwise unaffordable.  Others are looking for specific goods.  Friends swear that it’s the best place to find a deal on a great outfit that no one else will have.  And lots of people come for the experience, to see who else is there shopping, and secretly hoping for a celebrity sighting.  There have been lots of them, and many celebs make frequent visits to the flea market.

If you go once, you’ll want to go back again (and probably again).  It’s too much to absorb on just one visit.

The Rose Bowl Flea Market is located 1001 Rose Bowl Drive in Pasadena, California.  The flea market opens at 9 am, and it is not unusual to see a crowd lined up to be the first to find the good stuff.  Admission is $8/person, and children under 12 are admitted free when accompanied by an adult.  And, since LA is all about being “special,” there are options for an early admission ($15 gets you admitted between 7-8 am), and a special VIP admission ($20 gets you in between 5-7 am).  The market closes at 4:30 pm.

You’ll find lots of FREE parking, but if you want to feel like a special VIP, preferred parking (close to the entrance) is available for $10.

Photo credit:  Courtesy of R.G. Canning Attractions

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Tommy Bahama is known for its casual and comfortable leisure wear – pretty much all things tropical.  It’s island fabrics and styles for those of us who may only envy or visit the island lifestyle.

Many of the shops have added cafes where they feature island flavors and selections.  It’s a perfect spot to leave the non-shopper to sip a tropical drink and nosh on some appetizers, while the shoppers in the group take care of business.  And we know how hungry and thirsty shopping can make you!

Thanks to Anita for providing this matchbook.  If you’d like to share a matchbook for a future Matchbook Monday, please take a photo and email it to me along with any notes or comments you wish to make.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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Shopping, however, is the Number One tourism activity in the United States.  That’s why you’ll find so many retailers and shopping facilities promoting themselves with a tourism approach.  Whether it’s free shuttles from hotel to malls, special hotel stay/shopping packages, or shopping promotions tied in with conference events, retailers with a tourism focus are experience stronger overall sales results.

As I think about it, I enjoy doing a little shopping when I’m traveling.  It’s not the focal point of my travels, and some times I purchase, others I don’t.  I do think it tells me a little something about the area that I’m visiting when I see what they shop for.

How about you?  Do you shop when you travel?

Image credit: flickr

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While I’m a little less familiar with Saint Paul, I’ve still spent some time in the area.  I still have a few things left to do and see on this list, but here are my Saint Paul list of suggestions:

1. Check out the Science Museum of Minnesota, across from the RiverCentre.  It is surrounded by parks and walkways, and is a wonderful spot to learn and to relax.
2. Take a child or be a child yourself at the Minnesota Children’s Museum (7th Street, between St. Peter and Wabasha Streets).  This is one of the largest children’s museums in the country, and has lots of hands-on exhibits for kids and adults alike.
3. The Minnesota Zoo (nearby in Apple Valley) is home to over 1,700 animals and 800 plant species, and a wonderful escape from the hectic pace of the world.  Get a great overview of the zoo from the monorail.
4. Tour Landmark Center, and its majestic castle-like structure on Rice Park.  This was once the Federal Courthouse, and the site of some infamous gangster trials back in the 1930’s.
5. Visit Landmark Plaza Park and the bronze statues of Peanuts characters Snoopy, Charlie Brown, Sally, Linus, Lucy, Schroeder, Peppermint Patty, and Marcie.  Creator Charles M. Schulz was a Saint Paul Native.  (You’ll also find Peanuts characters located on various streets around the city.)
6. Tour the Minnesota State Capitol on a hill overlook downtown Saint Paul, and take a gander at the largest unsupported marble dome in the world.  The capitol is home to some great art as well.  Tours are free.
7. Relax and wander in Como Park.  Beautiful gardens, waterfalls, amusement rides, and more.  The Japanese Gardens are part of a program with Saint Paul’s sister city of Nagasaki, Japan.
8. Valleyfair Amusement Park (in Shakopee) is 68 acres of thrills, and includes a water park.  This is the home of the Renegade, a world class wooden roller coaster.  Lots of options for all ages and all levels of thrill seekers.
9. The Cathedral of Saint Paul (Summit & Selby Avenue) is modeled after Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome.  Its dome is over 306 feet from the floor to the tip of its cross.  (In photo at right.)
10. Take a ride on the wild side with a gangster tour.  Sure, it’s a bit touristy, but you’ll get to visit some famous gangster crime sites, hideaways, nightclubs, and speakeasies, including Ma Barker’s home and Dillinger’s apartment.
11. Drive down Summit Avenue and take a gander at one of Saint Paul’s most prestigious addresses.  It’s rife with beautiful residential Victorian architecture stretching fours and a half miles to the Mississippi.
12. Go shopping at the area’s most famous indoor attraction – the Mall of America (in photo above).  The place is HUGE!  In fact, if it were all one level it would spread out over 35 city blocks!  There are over 500 shops, 50 restaurants, and 14 movie theaters.  But it’s about more than shopping, there is also Underwater Adventures (a walk through aquarium), NASCAR Silicon Motor Speedway (a racing entertainment complex), Nickelodeon University and lots, lots more.

What are your recommendations of things to do is Saint Paul?  Please leave your suggestions in the comments.

Photo credit:  Flickr, Mall of America; Cathedral of Saint Paul

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Unlike many countries, the United States has no national sales tax that is comparable to the GST (goods and services tax) or the VAT (value added tax) that is found in many other countries.  Instead, each state, county and/or municipality sets their own tax rate.

This means that what you pay in tax in one location may be different from what you’d pay in another location.

Additionally, in some locations certain goods are tax exempt, most typically food, and some things are taxed at different rates.

Prices quoted on a sales tag or by sales personnel do not include tax, so be sure to take that additional charge into consideration when evaluating a purchase price.

Confused?  Just ask what the sales tax is.  We don’t try to keep track of what it is from one place to another, and not knowing isn’t a big deal.

One way that you may avoid paying sales tax is to have your purchase shipped out of state.  Since a shipping charge will likely apply, you need to make sure that any savings outweighs the additional cost.  If you’re making a rather large purchase, ask your sales clerk about this option and decide if it’s the way to go.

And if you’re visiting Alaska, Delaware, Montana, New Hampshire, or Oregon, you’re really in luck.  Those states have no state sales tax at all.

Photo credit:  wikimedia

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Market days will find the neighborhoods full of good displayed on the sidewalks, and often spilling out into the streets.  Ceramics, pottery, glassware, papier mâché items are all good buys.

If you practiced up on your Spanish, it will come in handy.  Although many locals do speak a little English, it’s probably going to take a fair amount of Spanish, English, and some gestures, to make yourself understood.  My Spanish is pretty rusty, but I gave it a good try, and really didn’t have any problems.

On market days, start your exploration from the main plaza at Juarez and Hidalgo .  Pick a direction and start wandering.  Many of the shops also serve as the family home, with the entire family involved in the business.  After awhile a lot of the products will look the same, and there’s not a lot of variation in price.  Find someone who’s a pleasure to do business with, and enjoy the transaction.

This plaza area also has lots of shops that feature more elaborate and decorative pieces, including wall hangings, furniture, and large ceramic and glass pieces.  Some of these shops take credit cards and will assist in arranging for shipping.

Should I still plan a visit if it’s not a market day?  Keep reading to find out!

Even if you’re not there on market day, a visit to Tonalá is enjoyable and can still yield great shopping.  Visit the ceramic and glass factories to get better prices than you’ll see most anywhere else.  These factories supply the shops in nearby Tlaquepaque, so you know that a trip to the source will mean better prices. 

Start at the main thoroughfare of Avenida de Los Tonaltecas on the edge of the downtown area.  The shops will be dusty and cluttered, the shelves rickety and crudely put together, and the products poorly displayed.  But here you’ll find good bargains.  Just remember, prettier displays and dusting equals higher prices!  The selections will vary slightly from place to place, although pricing is reasonably consistent.  The prices quoted were so incredibly fair and reasonable, that I was embarrassed to bargain.  That’s just the way I am – I don’t mind paying a fair price, nor do I begrudge anyone making a living.

One of the more popular purchases in Tonalá is the recognizable clear glasses with the blue rims.  While this color is the traditional one, and seen at many restaurants, bars, and upscale stores here in the United States, other colors are also becoming quite popular.  You’ll also find frosted glasses, and colorfully painted and decorated ones.

This video provides a nice sample display of some of the items you’ll find in Tonalá:

Here are some prices, listed in dollars, from a recent visit.  Variations will occur based on color, size, quantity purchased, and, of course, the exchange rate.  These are hand blown items, and each piece in unique.  Variations are to be expected. . . and enjoyed!

• Glass margarita pitcher and set of six margarita glasses – around $10-12(depending on size)
• Iced tea pitcher with six tumblers – around $8
• Small pitchers (for cream, syrup, etc.) – around $1 (depending on size)
• Large pitchers (for lemonade, sangria, etc.) – $3-6 (depending on size)
• Glass hanging wall masks with candle holder – around $6
• Wine glasses – $1-3 (depending on size and style)

You’re going to need to bring pesos, as most of the factories and shops do not accept credit cards or U.S. currency. 

Tonalá is about 20 minutes from Guadalajara by taxi (about $13), and about 45 minutes by local bus (about $1).  Taking the bus is a lot of fun, but if you’re doing a lot of shopping, it may be easier to take a taxi for the return trip when you’re toting lots of packages.

Photo credit: flickr

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Olvera Street

The street was originally a short lane, called Wine Street.  The lane was eventually extended, and the name changed to honor Agustin Olvera, the first county judge of Los Angeles.  Although it became a dirty, unused alley for a period of time, the area was eventually re-habbed, closed off to vehicles, trees were planted, and a large wooden cross was put up at the south end of the street. 

Olvera Street officially opened on Easter Sunday, 1930, and provided a place for Mexican American vendors to sell their goods, as well as to way to preserved their customs and culture.  The first restaurant in the city to sell authentic Mexican food opened here in 1930.  That restaurant, La Golondrina, is still there today.

In 1953 Olvera Street was designated as a California State Historic Landmark, and today it has become a center of Mexican commerce, culture and tourism.  It attracts over two million visitors a year.

Continue reading to find out what Olvera Street is like today!

As you wander the market, you’ll find many shops carrying the typical wares that you’d find in a market in Mexico (check the merchant directory).  You’ll also find numerous restaurants and outdoor cafe serving traditional, and authentic, Mexican food, and on weekends the plaza is full of entertaining musicians and dancers.

It’s a great place to be for many of the important annual fiestas, including the Blessing of the Animals, Mardi Gras, Cinco de Mayo, and Dia De Los Muertos

When planning a visit, I’d recommend allowing a couple hours.  There are lots of great photos opportunities, and you’ll want to spend some time wandering through the various stalls and shops, soaking up the sun and the culture.

Be sure to allow time for a bite to eat.  You’ll be tempted by all the delicious aromas wafting the through the plaza, and you’ll regret it if you don’t have time to succumb to that temptation.  Hint:  try the mole!

Olvera Street is open daily from 10 am – 7 pm (some stores keep different hours), and is free to wander through. 

Photo credits:  Courtesy of the Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau

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