I love Sharilyn Miller’s work. Primarily known as a wire jewelry artist, Sharilyn also works in many other media. She was the original editor of Belle Armoire magazine, which I adore. This new book contains a great techniques section, followed by page after page of Sharilyn’s one-of-a-kind designs. The best feature of this book is the photography. There are a gazillion photos, one for each major step in the process of creating your own wire and metal pieces.

Several other designers have contributed projects to this book. I love many of them, a few I’m not so crazy about, but that’s the way it usually is with a project book like this. A few of the projects didn’t even use copper, which sort of surprised me, but you could certainly make your piece with copper wire instead of steel. Simple metalwork and cold joins are the basis for the projects, so even a determined beginner could do most of these, although over all I think it’s geared more towards folks with some wire experience.

Check out The Bookshop for lots more links to books about jewelry-making in addition to this unique volume!

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Earring kit by Laura McCabe available from Beads East

For example, my friend Dulcey Heller creates kits and patterns for a site called simply Buy the Kit.  Despite the name, they also sell “bead-less kits”, a clever way to refer to patterns, as well as kits that contain everything you will need, just add hands and eyes.  This site specializes in seed beadwork.

If you are more interested in learning wire techniques, check out Jewelry Lessons.  There are lessons on polymer clay and beadwork too, but wire is king (or queen) at this site owned by Eni Oken.

Etsy is another place that you can check out for kits and patterns.  I had the most luck by searching on the term “tutorial”.  This lovely shop by WireBliss is just one of the sites I found that had education for sale.

If you’d like to sink your teeth into a really big project, you might want to check out Beads East.  There are free tutorials, both video and printed available here, as well as kits and patterns by artists like Laura McCabe and Sherry Serafini.

JewelerMe is a new site, started by a mother and daughter team.  They specifically package kits that can be done in a group setting like a bridal shower or a girls’ night out.

Finally, here are two more sites that I’m not as familiar with that have patterns and kits.  They look like they’re worth investigating as well:

Beaded Patterns

Simply Beads Kit of the Month

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Ooh!  I am a beginner and would love to learn more about wire-working and earrings are perfect chances to practice!

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Denise Peck is the editor of Step by Step Wire Jewelry magazine, and she has written 101 Wire Earrings, Step-by-Step Projects and Techniques.  The first part of the books covers the basics of wire, the tools, and all the techniques you’ll need to make all of the projects in the book.  This section is excellent, with clear photos and well-written instructions.

The main part of the book is devoted to the projects.  Each of the 101 earring designs has a photo, a list of all tools and materials you’ll need, plus step by step instructions.  There are no process photos, which might make it a bit of a challenge for beginners, but most of the earrings are simple enough to figure out from the main photo.

This is not a book for really experienced wireworkers.  There is not enough of a challenge for you unless you need to brush up on your basic skills.  However, the variety of earrings included pretty much assures that everyone will find something they like!  As we often say here, no book can be all things to all people.  The projects are mostly inexpensive and require minimal tools, and that can be a real plus.

Free Stuff Alert***Free Stuff Alert!!

I’ve got a copy of 101 Wire Earrings to give away! Just leave me a comment below and you’ll be automatically entered into the drawing. In a week, I’ll randomly pick a lucky winner.

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Materials:
40 inches 14 gauge sterling silver wire
24 inches 18 gauge sterling silver wire
5 inches 20 gauge sterling silver wire
Sterling silver headpins
8/0, 11/0 seed beads
4mm tube beads
Assorted glass, stone, sterling silver, pearl accent beads, 4-10mm
Nymo O

Tools:
Ball peen hammer
Beading needles
Wire cutters
Chain and round nosed pliers
Measuring tape

Step by step instructions

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Materials:
Ribbon yarn
28 gauge wire
Czech crystals or other beads
Beading wire
2 crimps
2 dozen Indian bells
2 large-holed silver beads
Small beads, approximately 4 mm

Tools:
Large crochet hook
Scissors
Wire cutters
Chain nose pliers

Step by step instructions

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If you’re a talented, skilled jewelry designer working with iron, Lark Books needs you! We’re seeking high-quality images for the gallery section of Iron Wire Jewelry, to be released in Fall 2010.

Send us pictures of your best earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings, or other creative jewelry showcasing your original designs and amazing skills. If you incorporate other materials like beads or resin, that’s great too, but make sure iron is the most prominent. Submission to the book is free.

Download entry form here.

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Artist: Sarah Dircksen
Websites:
Sirene del Mare
Etsy shop

Timeless pieces, that illuminate your inner romantic… Sweeping you away with the organic beauty of seafoam and watercolor skies…
Sirene del Mare jewelry is handcrafted with the finest materials, by designer, Sarah Rose Dircksen.

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A special project created and shared by Paul Bishop, our wire-wrapping champ, of Bishop Wire & Bead. Don’t miss Paul’s great tutorial from last week, Sodalite Delightful!

You need:

· A length of heavy half-hard wire, enough to go around the briolette with room to space and to create the extra bends and hanging loops. Since the wire is on the outside, soft wire will not be strong enough unless you can hammer it to hardness after formed.

· Two lengths of soft, thinner wire. Soft is important.

· A briolette. Any kind will do

· Wire cutters

· Circular/Oval forms (anything that you can wrap wire around. I used dowels.

· Chain-nose and flat-nosed pliers

· (Optional) Round-nosed pliers, jewelry hammer and anvil/bench block

The hardest part of this is the metal frame. It needs to be very symmetrical so the briolette hangs properly once completed.

1. Take the length of heavy wire and bend it into a circle/oval using a form larger than the briolette would fit into when laying flat. Let the ends cross.

2. Bend the crossed ends back using a smaller circle form, taking care to keep it symmetrical and flat. You might find it helpful to measure and mark your “pivot points” (where the curve changes direction) with a fine point marker.

3. Repeat the make the hanging loops, letting the wire overlap as if you were starting a wrapped loop.

a. For the hanging loops, I used the base of my round-nosed pliers.

4. Cut the wire with the wire cutters, and make sure the entire piece is flat, in the same manner as closing a jump ring.

5. At this point, if you want to add texture to the frame or simply flatten it, use the hammer and hard surface to do so. Once done, check to be sure it’s still symmetrical and flat.

6. Take the thin wire, and start a wrap around the curved portions between the bends made in step 2.

7. End the wrap on the whatever side you’ve chosen to be the back.

8. Cut both ends and tuck the ends against the inside of the thick wire and/or inside the wrapping.

9. Take the second thin wire and wrap it tightly onto the frame, high enough that the weight of the briolette won’t pull it to the bottom of the frame (I started wrapping up the frame from the 10 o’clock position).

10. Put the briolette on the end of the wire and position it in the center of the frame.

11. Take the wire from the unwrapped side of the briolette and wrap it onto the frame at the same position the other touches the frame on the other side.

12. Wrap the wire, making a reflection of the other wrapped side.

13. Trim the wires and tuck them against the back of the frame.

14. Attach the hanging loops to your stringing material.

I have another version of this done in copper wire. The frame does not come anywhere near touching at the top, but it is circular/oval enough that the briolette won’t slide down the sides as wrapped. Also, I used a heavier wire throughout to keep the form stronger.

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Technique Tuesday!

A special project created and shared by Paul Bishop, our wire-wrapping champ, of Bishop Wire & Bead. Look for another great tutorial by Paul next week!

Wrapping stones can be fun and challenging. Fairly regular-shaped rocks are easiest. One with a distinct shape can prove a challenge. If you’re entirely new, pick a smooth rounded rock. It is far easier on the hands than a sharp one when it slips out of your grasp.

You need:

· An interesting stone. Mine was sodalite.

· 3 soft wires, preferably of different gauges, but none less than 22 gauge. You could even mix wire colours, if the colours complement the stone. (note – If you’re new to wrapping, do this in cheaper wire – stainless steel or copper – for practice.)

· Chain-nose pliers

· Round-nosed pliers

· Wire cutters

The Wrapping:

1. Cut a piece heaviest wire, long enough to wrap all the way around the stone along it’s long axis and make a “wrapped” loop (single wrapped or double wrapped, your choice).

a. By double wrapped, I mean a wrapped loop that will be wrapped again after the wire is taken around the stone.

b. By single wrapped, I mean a simple loop at the top, and the wire is wrapped around itself below this loop after it circles the stone. I used this version.

2. Using the round-nosed pliers, add the top loop of your choice, large enough to fit whatever hanging material you’re going to use.

3. Two wire widths below the loop (below the wrapping for the double wrapped loop), bend the wire 90 degrees.

4. Hold the stone in your fingers with the long axis pointing down, thumb on one side, fingers on the other.

5. Put the loop in between two fingers, holding it vertically over the top of the stone so the 90 degree angle points away from your hand.

6. Using your other hand, start wrapping the wire down one side of the stone. In the pictures, it’s the thick vertical wire you see on the right. Don’t try to put in the kinks you see here. That happens later.

7. Once you put it down the side, hold the wire and stone together with your fingers or thumb, whatever side it’s on.

8. Pull the wire up the other side, over the top, and hold it in place.

9. Allow a little slackness, then wrap the wire UP around the vertical wire a couple of times. Cut your wire and tuck the end in with the chain nose pliers.

10. This is a good time to rest your hands and put down the stone and simple frame.

11. Choose the next thinnest wire. Cut a few lengths that will go around the stone horizontally, and add enough to allow several turns of wrapping around the wire frame and some slack.

12. You can start wrapping the new wire around the frame anywhere you like. I started near the top as the frame curves down to the side.

13. Bend the wire around to the other side of the frame, wrap it around the wire. Don’t forget to leave a little slack.

14. Repeat with the wire, wrapping around the stone each time. I basically divided the stones into quarters, top to bottom with three wires around the stone. If your wire gets too short, clip it off with wire cutters so that the cut end goes inside the wrap against the store. This will keep sharp edges away from the wearer.

15. Do the same with the next thinnest wire. This time, start anywhere you want and go in any direction you feel. Cut ends go under, leave a little slack. All you have to remember is cover enough of the frame so the stone cannot push between wires and fall out. I used this thin wire to cover the vertical part of the frame on the sides where there was no heavy wire.

16. Now, get ready to be do some “kinky” stuff. Taking your chain nose pliers, choose a section of the heaviest wire and place the jaws perpendicular to the stone (tips pointing down at the stone with the wire between then.

17. Twist the wire to the left, or right. Depending on how loose or tight you’re holding the jaws of the pliers, you’ll keep sharp kinks or gentle curves. Do this at random places until the heavy wire is tightened against the stone.

18. Repeat kinking with the next thinnest wire.

19. And again with the finest wire. You might notice that other places became a little less tight as you progressed. As long as the stone cannot fall out, you’re OK, but you can tweak as much as you want.

20. String your new pendant on the material of your choice.

My version of this is strung on 1/3 loop of necklace memory wire, covered in black rubber tubing (that’s why it’s hard to see in the photo). Once strung, the ends of the memory wire were given loops small enough that the stone cannot slide off. Those memory wire loops were attached by jump rings to a silver-plated chain. My chain has a clasp in the middle.

(Alternately, I could have used clasps at both ends of the chain to clip onto the memory wire loops. Then you could switch this wrapping with other pendants that can fit those clasps. One chain, many necklaces.)

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